tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-41687202586725202922024-02-19T04:01:49.265+00:00Project CBR250RRiAn account of my conversion of a 1996 Honda CBR250RR mc22 from carbs to fuel injection and beyond...motthomashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11930265085871789924noreply@blogger.comBlogger35125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4168720258672520292.post-26015597107977424922020-03-29T14:29:00.000+01:002020-03-29T14:29:56.839+01:00Microsquirt Engine Management Experience<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I have noticed over time that there are a surprising number of forum posts, mainly on small capacity motorcycle forums, that link to this blog in reference to providing information for a conversion from carburettors to fuel injection. I am humbled that people find this blog useful and I am very happy that my ramblings are being appreciated! I
have also had some contact from people who have expressed an interest in
doing a similar conversion using the Microsquirt ECU as a base. This is the general gist I got from the forum posts that I read also and I
would imagine that anyone reading this blog and wanting to embark on a
similar project may consider using the same engine management system as I have.
<br />
<br />
It is now almost 8 years since I started work on this project and I realise that, apart from the initial decision process back in 2012, I have not really given much feedback on the Microsquirt as an engine management system now that my own experience and the scope of the project has grown. Given the description of this blog, I think it is a good time to
summarise my thoughts and experiences with the Microsquirt/Megasquirt platform so that anybody reading this and looking to embark on a similar project can make their own informed decision. <br />
<br />
<br />
I'm afraid this post has turned into a long one so I will summarise quickly and then look at each point in more detail. The short answer is that, if I was to start this project again with
my current level of experience, I would not choose to use the Megasquirt
platform. The main reasons being as follows:<br />
<ol>
<li>The hardware is not quite capable enough for my application (high speed engine). Microsquirt specific.</li>
<li>Limited IO capability and hard-coded pin functions make the system less flexible than I would like. Microsquirt specific.</li>
<li>I find the support for genuine firmware issues lacking</li>
<li>The package as a whole (hardware, firmware & user interface software) is, in my opinion, not particularly well integrated. </li>
<li>I have found evidence of questionable calculations/logic within the firmware code</li>
<li>Some of the above points can be solved by choosing to purchase the top
spec MS3Pro but the cost of the top spec Megasquirt puts you into the
realms of most professional or semi-professional motorsport engine
controllers with generally better capability, support and integrated software.</li>
</ol>
<div>
The content of this post represents my own personal opinion and is entirely based on my own experience with and understanding of the the Microsquirt v3, MS2/Extra firmware and Tunerstudio software. The post is not intended to turn people away from the Megasquirt system but rather to empower readers with the knowledge of my own experiences. If any of the information I have provided is inaccurate or felt to be overly damaging then please contact me and I will be happy to correct or remove it.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Why I chose the Microsquirt as my engine management system</b><br />
<br />
I my first blog post in April 2012, I briefly outlined my reasons for choosing the Megasquirt platform and specifically the Microsquirt unit. These were:<br />
<br />
a. <u>Cost</u><br />
This was the biggest driver for me. As far as I was aware the Microsquirt unit was, and possibly still is, the lowest cost assembled engine management system available in the aftermarket. At the time of beginning the project, I had no experience with engine management systems or electronic fuel injection and I had no idea if it was going to be possible to create a reliable, functioning system that would allow me to use the bike as I wanted to so a low cost, low risk engine management solution was an important need.<br />
<br />
b. <u>Opensource</u><br />
At the time, I believed the Megasquirt to be an OpenSource project and the assumption was that all firmware and software were free. I now know this not to be true. While Megasquirt firmware is viewable and modifiable by users, it is a commercial, copyrighted product and its use is subject to a license agreement. For the standard user this may not make much difference. Firmware & updates are still provided free of charge and there is nothing preventing you from making changes to the firmware as long as you do not distribute the modified firmware and you make the modified firmware available to the developers.<br />
The tuning software, Tunerstudio, is also a commercial product and although a basic version is free, the full function version is a paid upgrade. Albeit at a relatively low cost.<br />
<br />
c. <u>Support</u><br />
The active support forum for Megasquirt users was very attractive. As a beginner, it is very comforting to know that there is an active community of users with different levels of experience which you can draw on if (when) you get stuck. The fact that the firmware and software developers are also active on the forum is also a big comfort.<br />
<br />
d. <u>Form factor.</u><br />
The Microsquirt v3 is small. That makes it very attractive for anybody doing an EFI conversion on a motorcycle. My CBR250RR suffers quite badly from the lack-of-space syndrome so the small form factor was very important.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
As a quick comment on the above Form Factor point, it should be noted
that while the Microsquirt packaging is small, it only includes logic
level coil drivers. That means for most motorcycle conversions (unless
you are able to fit ignition coils with integrated drivers), an external
ignition driver module containing the high current IGBTs is required.
An external lambda sensor control module will also be required if using a
wideband lambda sensor (recommended). While having these units external
to the ECU can be an advantage from a packaging point of view, they
generally increase the complexity of the installation and do need to be
taken into account. <br />
Now that the original decision process is fresh, I will jump back to the present and address the "why not" list. <br />
<br />
<br /></div>
<b>1. The hardware is not quite capable enough for my application (high speed engine). </b><b>Microsquirt specific.</b><br />
<div>
<br />
While I have yet to find a defined maximum engine speed for the Microsquirt, the
Megasquirt developers have stated in forum posts that the Microsquirt CPU is not
guaranteed to be capable of tracking engine speed above 15,000rpm and,
even then, the number of teeth on the trigger wheel will come into play.
I am very much aware that the Microsquirt in my engine (18,000rpm) and
12-3 trigger wheel may be exceeding the design limits of
the CPU. While I have bench tested the ECU up to 18,000rpm with
satisfactory spark timing accuracy (after compensation for hardware lags has been applied), I cannot be sure if the accuracy is still as good when CPU
experiences more load on a running engine. <br />
This is a relatively unique use-case though as there are not many engines on the market that are capable of such engine speeds so it is hardly surprising that a low-budget ECU such as the Microsquirt would struggle. At the same time, competitor ECU's typically specify maximum engine speeds in the product datasheet so the limitations are clear when purchasing.<br />
I would love to replace the standard trigger wheel with a higher tooth count wheel to increase engine position tracking accuracy but this is not possible with the Microsquirt controller. The Microsquirt simply does not meet the requirements of this project but then it never claimed to and I have to put part of the blame on myself for going ahead with the platform without knowing if it would be capable.<br />
This is an issue specific to the Microsquirt unit and not a limiting factor of the Megasquirt platform. See point 6.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>2. Limited I/O capability and hard-coded pin functions make the system less flexible than I would like. </b><b>Microsquirt specific.</b><br />
<br />
The
majority of inputs/outputs are hard-coded to specific pins which means
that if you do not use an input/output, you lose the functionality of
that pin. For a basic ECU with already limited functionality such as the
Microsquirt, this is understandable and it works fine for a basic
installation. However, if you are installing a programmable ECU for a
challenge like I did, you will inevitably want to expand on the
capabilities of the system if even just to have the ability to log
additional data that isn't necessarily used by any ECU calculations.
When that happens, the only option is to either upgrade to a higher specification ECU or use an external data-logger with its own I/O capability. Personally, I have taken the 2nd option in the interrim with the plan to upgrade ECU in the longer term.<br />
The Microsquirt
is naturally going to be the choice ECU in the Megasquirt line-up for anyone doing a
motorcycle conversion purely because of its physical size.
Unfortunately for motorcycle people, the Microsquirt is also the entry
level, most basic offering in the Megasquirt line-up and it does not look like
the package or the firmware will be getting any upgrades in the future.<br />
Again, this is mostly an issue with the Microsquirt unit and there are units available in the Megasquirt range which do not have these limitations. <br />
<br />
<br />
<b>3. I find the support for genuine issues lacking</b><br />
<br />
One of the reasons for choosing the Megasquirt platform was that there was a very active
support forum which the developers of the firmware and software
frequent. There are a lot of threads
started asking for help with many replies from users who appear quite
knowledgeable and the queries seem to get answered quite quickly.<br />
However,
I found that as I got into the project and learned more about the
system and the process of engine calibration, I began to find that the
majority of questions on the forum were related to very superficial
matters which were more than likely born out of the users inexperience
and misunderstanding. As a new user, this is definitely very comforting to know that you have a place to ask the questions you are likely to come across.<br />
While digging into logged
data from my engine and the firmware code to try and understand how
certain things were being calculated I found some genuine issues with
the way the firmware was doing things. When I posted these issues on the
forum they seemed to be largely ignored or I received pretty fluffy or
defensive answers. It may not be the case but I felt that the attitude
was along the lines of "what do you expect when we do this in our spare
time?".<br />
The issue with the way that the Megasquirt system is
structured is that when it comes to the firmware, there is no direct
line of support. If there is an issue with the hardware, you can
approach the vendor who you bought the physical unit from. If there is
an issue with the TunerStudio or Megalogviewer software, you can
approach EFI Analytics who develop the software. But if there is an
issue with the firmware then there is no clear path for support other
than the forums. The firmware is developed by a handful people
around the world who, to the best of my knowledge, do it in their spare time so approaching an
individual and getting a timely and comprehensive response cannot be expected.<br />
Also, unless the issue is hardware related, it
is often very difficult for the user to distinguish if the issue stems from the user interface software or the firmware and so getting the information to the correct people can be difficult.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>4. The package as a whole (hardware, firmware & user interface software) is not particularly well integrated.</b><br />
<br />
This
is related to the same issue as point #3. The separate developers and
designers for the three main aspects of the ECU package, by nature,
means that the Megasquirt package as a whole is not as well integrated
as an ECU package where the hardware, firmware and user software are
developed by a single entity and sold commercially as a package.<br />
To
me, the biggest issue with this structure is the user interface
software. It is obvious that the Tunerstudio software has been developed
by a separate entity than the firmware.<br />
I can understand why the
structure has worked out how it has. It looks like the developers of
Tunerstudio saw a gap that was created by the original software not
being very user friendly and not being maintained. It
is just a pity that this alternative software has now become the only
option for Megasquirt.<br />
While Tunerstudio and it’s data analysis counterpart, Megalogviewer, are free in their basic form, to get any
usability that approaches competitor calibration software, you need
to purchase the full versions. I understand the
requirement for EFI Analytics to employ this multi-level software as the
company is a standalone entity but it does mean that when a user
purchases a Megasquirt ECU, it is not offered with all the tools
required to use it in the same way as competitors offer. This works well
for the basic level Megasquirt offering as some people may not need or
even know how to use all features of the software but when it comes to
the higher level offering, the additional cost of the calibration and
data analysis software from a third party supplier is a disadvantage
and does need to be taken into consideration.<br />
I have also found that
there are not enough calculation parameters available to datalog via the
Tunerstudio software. The available parameters to log are typically only
inputs and end outputs. In my opinion, it is essential to include far
more raw inputs and outputs from calculations in order to calibrate an
engine effectively and troubleshoot any issues. These should include at
least raw sensor voltages or ADC count, controller P, I & D
contributions and injector open time determined by the ECU. This is most likely a limitation of the RS232 serial link as some of these additional parameters are available over CAN-Bus but as the user interface software cannot communicate via CAN-Bus then this is not particularly helpful. This may
well be a case that only a limited number of parameters are passed to
the interface software but it also serves to reinforce the integration
issue.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>5. I have found evidence of questionable calculations/logic within the firmware code</b></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I
prefer to work with Lambda rather than AFR because it is unambiguous
and is a constant across different fuel types. It is also a simple scale
factor so it is very easy to see how far away from stoich you are just
by glancing at the measured lambda. AFR in general use is a theoretical
ratio which is based on a chemically ideal fuel which is unlikely to
relate to the fuel you are actually using so I don't actually see any
benefit to using AFR as a measurement. The only time I would use AFR is
if I needed to figure out how much air was passing through the engine.</div>
The
Megasquirt platform by default uses AFR in its fuelling calculations if you have
chosen to incorporate AFR target in the fuelling calculation. In order
to calculate the multiplier for the injector open time depending on
Lambda target, the firmware needs to receive a user specified
stoichiometric AFR from the interface software. This additional
operation in itself makes AFR a less than ideal parameter to use within
the ECU calculations.<br />
Beside the point, I can accept that the
calculations are done less than ideally and given the internet seems to
have made people in general more familiar with AFR rather than Lambda it
makes sense that the developers would use AFR if they are marketing
their product towards the hobbyist.<br />
<br />
The developers have
included a feature within the user software which allows the user to
specify that they want to use Lambda rather than AFR. This changes the
default AFR gauge and logged field from AFR to Lambda and also makes the
AFR target table display in Lambda. This looked promising and I used it
until I noticed some anomalies in the data and looked into it.<br />
Since the EGO sensor calibration which is sent to the ECU is
in AFR, the AFR read from the sensor must be divided by the
stoichiometric AFR to provide the Lambda value which is logged. I had
always made the assumption that this conversion was carried out using
the user provided stoichiometric AFR. This however is not the case in
the MS2/Extra firmware. The firmware uses a hardcoded 14.7 as a divisor
for AFR to Lambda, effectively providing an incorrect Lambda feedback
should the EGO sensor input be calibrated to anything other than Lambda 1 =
14.7:1 AFR.<br />
<br />
For example: Say you are running E85 with a
theoretical stoich AFR of 9.8:1. You might calibrate the EGO sensor so that
it reads 9.8 AFR at Lambda 1 and input a stoich AFR of 9.8:1 in the
software for use in the fuelling calculations. If you have the software
profile set to use Lambda, when the engine is running at stoich AFR
(Lambda 1), the Lambda reported to the user through the software and
being logged will actually be 9.8 (measured AFR per EGO calibration) / 14.7
(hardcoded stoich AFR) or Lambda 0.667. The also applies to the AFR
target which is passed to the fuelling equation.<br />
<br />
I have
identified that the code was changed in the MS3 firmware so the issue
is isolated to MS2/E firmware. I made the
developers aware of the issue at the beginning of 2018 and the feedback has been that users should always use 14.7 stoich AFR even if running different fuel. This approach is acceptable but I feel it is not documented or made clear to the user that they should be only be using 14.7 stoich AFR when setting up the ECU. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>6. Some of the above points can be solved by choosing the top spec
MS3Pro but the cost of the top spec Megasquirt puts you into the realms
of most professional or semi-professional motorsport engine controllers
with far more capability, support and software.</b><br />
<br />
While
all the above might sound like I am bashing the Megasquirt platform, I
do like the idea of a build-it-yourself hardware platform, freely
available firmware whose source code is available for anyone to tweak to
suit their own needs and simple calibration software. It is also
undoubtedly the cheapest option for engines with high cylinder counts
(more than 6) if you want to run sequential ignition & injection.<br />
<br />
However,
points #3, 4 & 5 are issues with the Megasquirt platform, not the Microsquirt unit so by upgrading within the Megasquirt platform these issues/frustrations would remain. From my point of view in controlling a 4 cylinder engine, I have come
to the conclusion that there are many alternatives to the Megasquirt
platform available on the market which provide the same features (if not
more) as an MS2 unit for a similar cost, in a pre-assembled package,
with a fully integrated hardware/firmware/software package, support from
the manufacturer and more useable software.<br />
<br />
I feel
that there is still a market for the MS2 hardware and the MS3 DIY kits
within the hobbyist community but when you start getting into the cost
of the fully assembled and smaller footprint MS3Pro series of ECU, I
feel that the money is better spent on an ECU that is produced by and
supported by a commercial entity and is marketed at professional or
semi-professional race teams rather than hobbyists.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
I
have come to the limitations of the Microsquirt ECU quite quickly with
this project and, in hindsight, I have spent far more time and effort trying to overcome these limitations than I should have. I should have upgraded from the Microsquirt a long time ago. An ECU upgrade is already in work and will be the subject of future blog posts.
Given my issues outlined already, I will not be continuing with the Megasquirt platform.<br />
<br />
I have a Life Racing F88R ECU available to me that I purchased for a different project so I have decided to fit the F88R to the CBR250RR in place of the Microsquirt. Of course the F88R is in a different price bracket from the Megasquirt offering so cannot be considered a direct competitor. The F88 platform is mainly targeted at the professional motorsports market. The performance and features available reflect this but then so does the price.<br />
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I have also recently become aware of the ECUMaster EMU Black ECU which is in the same price bracket as the MS3Pro ECUs but includes some very nice features such as onboard LSU lambda drivers, full H-bridge for DBW throttle control, 2off onboard K-Type thermocouple inputs, 6off injector & ignition outputs and very professional software. These are features that are not common at all in ECUs priced around $1000. If I did not already have the F88R ECU the EMU Black would be my choice for this project.</div>
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If you are new to EFI or engine tuning, it can be difficult to know what you don't know. There are so many options available now on the market that it can be daunting to pick the one thats best for you. My advice would be to figure out what features you want and use them to narrow down the choice. Also make sure that the ECU hardware is capable enough for your use case. If you are unsure, contact the manufacturer.</div>
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Once you have narrowed down the options, it is a good idea to visit the manufacturers website & download a copy of their software. There are usually some sample projects included to allow you to get familiar with how the software works. The software can make or break an ECU. It is the only interface you have so make sure you are happy with it and it does what you want. </div>
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If you are still reading, I hope this has been helpful.</div>
</div>
motthomashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11930265085871789924noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4168720258672520292.post-65114966305346651022019-11-26T21:26:00.000+00:002019-11-26T21:26:18.066+00:00GPS & IMU Data Expansion<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Following on from the DIY CAN-Bus data logger, I wanted to continue and build the next module in the data-logging chain. I wanted to add a module which could acquire GPS data at high data rates so that it would be useable for track data analysis. The GPS data logged via my mobile phone on previous trackdays had shown promise but the update rate (1 Hz) was too slow and the accuaracy to low to really make the data useful for track use.<br />
<br />
I decided to use a GPS breakout board that is capable of 50Hz update rates.<br />
I also added an IMU module to the board to try and see if any useful data on accelerations, pitch & roll angles could be extracted. If not, the module could be disabled or removed in a future revision.<br />
<br />
Similar to the datalogger module, the GPS/IMU module uses a Teensy 3.2 controller for the data processing. No data is stored in the GPS/IMU module. The data is collected from the sensors, assembled into CAN messages & transmitted on the bus to be picked up and recorded by the datalogger module.<br />
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The module is a bit larger than the datalogger as I have used breakout boards for the GPS & IMU rather than mount the chips directly. A 3v coin cell battery is included to allow 1s hot starts of the GPS module. That way a fix can be acquired very soon after the module is powered on.<br />
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Data is currently polled at 20Hz and passed directly to the CAN Bus. This is to simplify the software & prove out the concept. If everything works and the data looks useful I would like to add a Kalman filter to the data.</div>
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The pillion seat replacement cover currently installed on the bike makes an ideal mounting point for the GPS antenna. The antenna is mounted on the base plate but underneath the outer fairing. This way the antenna is hidden from view but has a direct line of sight to the sky for optimum reception.<br />
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Having tested the unit, the GPS works very well. Even without filtering, the data rate seems fast enough to get relatively stable position & speed data. With the hot start function, position data is available as soon as the datalogger is ready to start.</div>
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The IMU module has not been quite as useful. The unit is a Bosch BNO055. While standing still the orientation looks quite good. However, once the bike is moving, accelerating, turning, the unit seems to lose track of which way is up and so the pitch, roll & yaw angles don't make any sense. There is a possibility that I may need to mount the module more securely so that it is held in a stable position but is isolated from spikes in acceleration caused by bumps in the road.</div>
</div>
motthomashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11930265085871789924noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4168720258672520292.post-60292966687702864432019-11-26T21:22:00.000+00:002019-11-26T21:22:03.679+00:00Front End Conversion<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">It was recently brought to my attention that I have not provided any detail on the front end conversion that I have carried out on the bike.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">I may have skipped this topic due to the nature of the blog but at this stage it has become more of a project blog than a pure EFI conversion blog so it seems fitting to include it.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">I had planned on doing a front end conversion for a while to improve the stability of the bike. I had spent a bit of time collecting the parts for it and then sometime before starting the bike on injectors, I installed most of it together.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">I had grabbed a full K4/K5 GSXR600 front end for decent money. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">I wanted to modify as little as possible in keeping with my "100% reversibility" motto I had at the time. I figured the GSXR steering stem could work in the CBR headstock with a different sized top bearing. The size ended up being pretty non standard but I managed to find one to suit in the US.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">I also wanted to keep the smaller front wheel from the CBR rather than use the GSXR wheel. The GSXR axle is bigger than the CBR axle but I could again just swap the bearing size and dust seals to make it work. I did need to make new spacers to put the wheel in the right position. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">The CBR brake disks were too small to fit the GSXR calipers but I couldn't use the GSXR disks with the CBR wheel as some disk offset was required to get the disks lined up in the GSXR calipers. A bit of measuring and research pointed me towards CBR900RR disks. These had the same ID & bolt PCD to fit the CBR wheel while having a large enough OD & offset to put the disk between the GSXR calipers.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">First, off came the stock front end.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoXafH3DXM_8Gcg_moiad_Vf6HGcI9-EWim4IDfE6_k5z6q11k3j_GIKBmXXMZ4obnRh1uFglhMr1TqMTg5D2N-uTvbw81JtSWOUsQHvqn387VlJpKse-Xqv6v_LD07lrDnbPMI7XFG90/w1259-h944-no/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="944" data-original-width="1259" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoXafH3DXM_8Gcg_moiad_Vf6HGcI9-EWim4IDfE6_k5z6q11k3j_GIKBmXXMZ4obnRh1uFglhMr1TqMTg5D2N-uTvbw81JtSWOUsQHvqn387VlJpKse-Xqv6v_LD07lrDnbPMI7XFG90/w1259-h944-no/" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Then out with the old headstock bearing races.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW3LnMe-l_E-K2Gl0G2azB71BVguB0qg-QzGGQ-vRSDTFSZM4hvHl-SPkaEpa9XhIQLDUHn_xFhbP6-Hew3VCRUunzusDeyq5-CoMC9MO40rrnZQUdKo4bhFOIAkCKntsmic4pDCfvsLs/w1259-h944-no/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="944" data-original-width="1259" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW3LnMe-l_E-K2Gl0G2azB71BVguB0qg-QzGGQ-vRSDTFSZM4hvHl-SPkaEpa9XhIQLDUHn_xFhbP6-Hew3VCRUunzusDeyq5-CoMC9MO40rrnZQUdKo4bhFOIAkCKntsmic4pDCfvsLs/w1259-h944-no/" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Move to the new steering stem and insert a new lower bearing on OEM CBR250 dust seal.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVWebHhYvs5nbYsfqcme6irKAxPYL9zmzD0KWeZ_BKqIac2kyJ06viLi1sNF34bVk616zfLysnZuhgLiJ6hcFyxo9I25-CGRs0QpYnyB9RUNJNlaKjshDc0I2a2IstBnL6oE23AxXSAW4/w1259-h944-no/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="944" data-original-width="1259" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVWebHhYvs5nbYsfqcme6irKAxPYL9zmzD0KWeZ_BKqIac2kyJ06viLi1sNF34bVk616zfLysnZuhgLiJ6hcFyxo9I25-CGRs0QpYnyB9RUNJNlaKjshDc0I2a2IstBnL6oE23AxXSAW4/w1259-h944-no/" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">The new steering stem required a 30mm ID upper bearing but that made
standard tapered roller bearing sizes too big for the 47mm ID CBR250
headstock upper bearing seat. Luckily I found a suspension reseller in the
USA that could supply a bearing kit especially for these types of swaps
including an oddball size tapered roller bearing 30x47x12 and a 3mm spacer to
bring the assembly up to the 15mm stock bearing height and dust seal.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtcEkGdv0FyRWyC726zG-MfF8If9RLh5k5skcS9PrBTXmmZTyeMgUHXwWCYh87h2WozIRNUPK9YNFj77L9JjsZlPQlmt3TypmBMnmG9y9K31XwIu_8NqEsgdw8NsCAO0rddGRCRhK_mUc/w1259-h944-no/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="944" data-original-width="1259" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtcEkGdv0FyRWyC726zG-MfF8If9RLh5k5skcS9PrBTXmmZTyeMgUHXwWCYh87h2WozIRNUPK9YNFj77L9JjsZlPQlmt3TypmBMnmG9y9K31XwIu_8NqEsgdw8NsCAO0rddGRCRhK_mUc/w1259-h944-no/" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYAiONIElAIKFSyJVjcRi3-CBS4pkvA2PS1xB6f9-yfYHYg3SjC3_OwPIxk0Hj_zuEuJYzbGUhMFGqadl-FdVuUXUq56a4WA3OoOl6IDJqeftCurW7_RqlbS9h_dfLA_4pLfuyLruQxhE/w1259-h944-no/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="944" data-original-width="1259" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYAiONIElAIKFSyJVjcRi3-CBS4pkvA2PS1xB6f9-yfYHYg3SjC3_OwPIxk0Hj_zuEuJYzbGUhMFGqadl-FdVuUXUq56a4WA3OoOl6IDJqeftCurW7_RqlbS9h_dfLA_4pLfuyLruQxhE/w1259-h944-no/" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPMvJPyeTqD-cGRekfFdkNZ-LqgJrYGDDpt0EiuxWZhE-gxA4C63AttKbSqDoB_18RrhCdOMTsL17LtRGFxoVvDNIyzN5ZxCTzGosSIm4aQLAdIjV9_OTUXS7kzgOi-YQUh3e2MbigsjI/w1259-h944-no/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="944" data-original-width="1259" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPMvJPyeTqD-cGRekfFdkNZ-LqgJrYGDDpt0EiuxWZhE-gxA4C63AttKbSqDoB_18RrhCdOMTsL17LtRGFxoVvDNIyzN5ZxCTzGosSIm4aQLAdIjV9_OTUXS7kzgOi-YQUh3e2MbigsjI/w1259-h944-no/" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Forks in place.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/PiJ4jckPp3ZsPnxI6Kk5TT6WiKm6klRnHAV-iBBd_hMHN05Z5mv07fSGKfIf99YTP9mPnWxa5ETOQD7xPyAWOa_hnm4m2Cm7O1ZjQCNFT817_iS3vTOtFeM6XhEF60mprWKZaW074A-6kdQmscaiB3dDDZOyYJrPXNz_bErKxWua-EjcQbBIkBlxImIG34huh_NrMIShiSHY-KEMbel6lDcK4w8Sq89zAaCN8u-7asMbnB5utNU6OEBAx5KlLnxiOZPlI4ru6qSiT4D-qYMBthmMqy7zuvy_EsTrYSKr2hpjCYWQMptrnT6DIQGce2Pwiw-UZtx6f8y0y8aNBlvuXS2sTu-Uh4Kg9ZhmCcJ3xTALAeLaVWMk5P4lxGZWYoJ4YUwEg4DmLuikq1Oh6cLVJri-c1612Fmf2aXKLCMobzLM5Ygvs8P3XL5PFAvysEQ1pCE7F1auBPPubaWhJuNGyQVcfi_wxg-SUWvDa1_g4U72qIAQTNVL6SKt5BqXNa6AWwF7nFldXO7dN0o4AlXPYA6RS28SRitNFZ679WiFUkglEiyIfEkHc4tbLzS3ozvP94O0O0Q2YXhNVqL0WhuHPSlp4fhCFS6O_5j87VzWKDDfWnN8XainKocMPiiArnzNz3XkBA0vxPb5bU1vREV0e93vz3ZmXzO7gu90v7ggxvjA44iPoGF6z3ot=w1259-h944-no" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="944" data-original-width="1259" height="298" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/PiJ4jckPp3ZsPnxI6Kk5TT6WiKm6klRnHAV-iBBd_hMHN05Z5mv07fSGKfIf99YTP9mPnWxa5ETOQD7xPyAWOa_hnm4m2Cm7O1ZjQCNFT817_iS3vTOtFeM6XhEF60mprWKZaW074A-6kdQmscaiB3dDDZOyYJrPXNz_bErKxWua-EjcQbBIkBlxImIG34huh_NrMIShiSHY-KEMbel6lDcK4w8Sq89zAaCN8u-7asMbnB5utNU6OEBAx5KlLnxiOZPlI4ru6qSiT4D-qYMBthmMqy7zuvy_EsTrYSKr2hpjCYWQMptrnT6DIQGce2Pwiw-UZtx6f8y0y8aNBlvuXS2sTu-Uh4Kg9ZhmCcJ3xTALAeLaVWMk5P4lxGZWYoJ4YUwEg4DmLuikq1Oh6cLVJri-c1612Fmf2aXKLCMobzLM5Ygvs8P3XL5PFAvysEQ1pCE7F1auBPPubaWhJuNGyQVcfi_wxg-SUWvDa1_g4U72qIAQTNVL6SKt5BqXNa6AWwF7nFldXO7dN0o4AlXPYA6RS28SRitNFZ679WiFUkglEiyIfEkHc4tbLzS3ozvP94O0O0Q2YXhNVqL0WhuHPSlp4fhCFS6O_5j87VzWKDDfWnN8XainKocMPiiArnzNz3XkBA0vxPb5bU1vREV0e93vz3ZmXzO7gu90v7ggxvjA44iPoGF6z3ot=w1259-h944-no" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">The throttle tube housing and starter/kill switch assy needed the placement lugs removed in order to fit onto the new clipon.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXyBuke8_ump1kqP8mAnGEcS-RO3z5onUBF9ClCQ9vqOlY8b9SaC84co_o-60rgdfUfMVpRRG2x6DSDYC8VZtWAusFVWy_2yc9LWV_YLdMDB3M75JBaH-kc7xoAxYOWaTdPLpZ6Her3T0/w1259-h944-no/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="944" data-original-width="1259" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXyBuke8_ump1kqP8mAnGEcS-RO3z5onUBF9ClCQ9vqOlY8b9SaC84co_o-60rgdfUfMVpRRG2x6DSDYC8VZtWAusFVWy_2yc9LWV_YLdMDB3M75JBaH-kc7xoAxYOWaTdPLpZ6Her3T0/w1259-h944-no/" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">First impressions were good</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUVa3iApB3TjgNgHaxcY0rjtvqi_9qIwrMnu-tIiyKFGMSGG86zmZA2m5vNbGqgvXUR9q8McuqQCpq72eYdD0H9ll9hTlcQ4bAZNOoFo21yKeYNMH8qzFFvtkNTaDTHcPQ9en3QC8PEyQ/w1259-h944-no/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="944" data-original-width="1259" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUVa3iApB3TjgNgHaxcY0rjtvqi_9qIwrMnu-tIiyKFGMSGG86zmZA2m5vNbGqgvXUR9q8McuqQCpq72eYdD0H9ll9hTlcQ4bAZNOoFo21yKeYNMH8qzFFvtkNTaDTHcPQ9en3QC8PEyQ/w1259-h944-no/" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Moving onto the front wheel, first out came the old bearings & seals and off with the original brake disks</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVrr3yfkWt168k8r3TbbSM7dsLgyZr4yiCLLaV7GGqsu8fU4a5310JaTSxk0WcaCDoR1k6uS0-sCrN7vBhpxQ0ZyXrUyzaRjRds8nfLfkTiW07IaZY4PI7LDp3GQb6-TLI_mzEcyUcRkY/w1259-h944-no/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="944" data-original-width="1259" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVrr3yfkWt168k8r3TbbSM7dsLgyZr4yiCLLaV7GGqsu8fU4a5310JaTSxk0WcaCDoR1k6uS0-sCrN7vBhpxQ0ZyXrUyzaRjRds8nfLfkTiW07IaZY4PI7LDp3GQb6-TLI_mzEcyUcRkY/w1259-h944-no/" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">The new wheel axle is 25mm OD so the original wheel spacers and bearings
would not work. To combat that issue I designed new spacers to suit.</span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw8dvbTOV-Pr1Ah588TSJlSjencNc6d140UoiIJ5glwrwbzVkck08sLs4jLDDlEMEu0BP3LQRmOPpv5xhV6PncnzzubP2D9JfGhp_IoXGBFTiqSD3jqm17s11dnzrQhTfhPbKYSON7j58/w1259-h944-no/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="944" data-original-width="1259" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw8dvbTOV-Pr1Ah588TSJlSjencNc6d140UoiIJ5glwrwbzVkck08sLs4jLDDlEMEu0BP3LQRmOPpv5xhV6PncnzzubP2D9JfGhp_IoXGBFTiqSD3jqm17s11dnzrQhTfhPbKYSON7j58/w1259-h944-no/" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New Centre Spacer</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: small;"></span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Different size bearings (6905) allowed the wheel to fit straight on the
axle and 32x42x7 oil/dust seals to fit. The bearing/seal
stack is smaller than standard but that got swept up with the difference in wheel positioning on the GSXR axle.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/hTmQRcXssjdDZYWncNnvxjNlHVlOzhVlUgeDLZ_xMWYaX5LWw0FA1YursoF_4g5rSy4MDkWM-pdOvFocmNQ5GOsXdO19Chc6yezmpSttupfIAoHILhJEu483ojgyg0UuqM8r1Lgxlq8k-Yw4GeU5fCErGiARHttVSBvi9kaslg5rhgfMmDrNsN9LU8cc3rCZU6avVY_8WIGbV9Mtlsk8RkVO8SW3yOlLizl1ss02RPN7oluc9t-5CacHN68FuVvkivIreNS5pLO4_WoeY3frFMGlmnjp_rw4WI6gQ3IlmwHH18tovzb-oQ4_EWsFNIzJTixXbvwN1qDQPfIMdFhEGZ11_Suis6Qu3TXnNfkWDHScdRW71W17r7hM4rYPQ_GlAYVoU8hwoTEFPOFoC5b0E5Ujq9Jaye8hxaKgMAZBNThMzO9mPm5L2eNgp_J2EYIEROn0Hj5J-LC18zN_vyMLU7wcuQIkOnadDfEYj_BxOt0lbxfGOVOBD3BJrUVA2Zls9x4kmvPsjA_qZtsAheuNvVgsizyHLcfp4ztaJVcQC3LvI85l_rHqfZXtTRke3R_Db1haVrw4J6DUuYgUJ4SDBC-IyEK-4_DSWsqMZ4O5DqrUz1ke8lLOx8PxZT7fQ4BzFTGQAKz88Vv2qKJiBA_RVjfKsA8DVR-N8i8ljjlOmSF49jANBs-kIwce=w1259-h944-no" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="944" data-original-width="1259" height="298" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/hTmQRcXssjdDZYWncNnvxjNlHVlOzhVlUgeDLZ_xMWYaX5LWw0FA1YursoF_4g5rSy4MDkWM-pdOvFocmNQ5GOsXdO19Chc6yezmpSttupfIAoHILhJEu483ojgyg0UuqM8r1Lgxlq8k-Yw4GeU5fCErGiARHttVSBvi9kaslg5rhgfMmDrNsN9LU8cc3rCZU6avVY_8WIGbV9Mtlsk8RkVO8SW3yOlLizl1ss02RPN7oluc9t-5CacHN68FuVvkivIreNS5pLO4_WoeY3frFMGlmnjp_rw4WI6gQ3IlmwHH18tovzb-oQ4_EWsFNIzJTixXbvwN1qDQPfIMdFhEGZ11_Suis6Qu3TXnNfkWDHScdRW71W17r7hM4rYPQ_GlAYVoU8hwoTEFPOFoC5b0E5Ujq9Jaye8hxaKgMAZBNThMzO9mPm5L2eNgp_J2EYIEROn0Hj5J-LC18zN_vyMLU7wcuQIkOnadDfEYj_BxOt0lbxfGOVOBD3BJrUVA2Zls9x4kmvPsjA_qZtsAheuNvVgsizyHLcfp4ztaJVcQC3LvI85l_rHqfZXtTRke3R_Db1haVrw4J6DUuYgUJ4SDBC-IyEK-4_DSWsqMZ4O5DqrUz1ke8lLOx8PxZT7fQ4BzFTGQAKz88Vv2qKJiBA_RVjfKsA8DVR-N8i8ljjlOmSF49jANBs-kIwce=w1259-h944-no" width="400" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span> <span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">A pair of new </span></span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">CBR900RR disks. The photo below gives an indication of the size difference from the standard CBR250RR disks.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPimFp40f05DfBPlZKmLuEjGaeZwcYTzAMOcyKaCR6GR5AiC0b5Y8EQnG_E4RZPichCN9CiymL5qftIBke86hHeW5zpOQyYHg5WNmyJrOZ47kB0ilgJ-2-C-294gk2aFGUB9-_StN3VeE/w1259-h944-no/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="944" data-original-width="1259" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPimFp40f05DfBPlZKmLuEjGaeZwcYTzAMOcyKaCR6GR5AiC0b5Y8EQnG_E4RZPichCN9CiymL5qftIBke86hHeW5zpOQyYHg5WNmyJrOZ47kB0ilgJ-2-C-294gk2aFGUB9-_StN3VeE/w1259-h944-no/" width="400" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">The wheel spacers were built into the new axle and nut but as the CBR250
wheel is narrower and includes an offset from centre, I needed
additional spacers. These also compensated for the smaller bearing stack.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyKcfxBNmYnBoUwFx1-VCMAgZWp3lMcx3x4gj8WFmDfrtIIdl2MMV_EL6zzGs4UyxatGVDRJes8NU1xWRm0Da1NKKWXIUmo2Qq0tLPUEjfDaJQnyDmg8oDJbU9R2cdsmZwmidB1-Jt6mo/w1259-h944-no/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="944" data-original-width="1259" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyKcfxBNmYnBoUwFx1-VCMAgZWp3lMcx3x4gj8WFmDfrtIIdl2MMV_EL6zzGs4UyxatGVDRJes8NU1xWRm0Da1NKKWXIUmo2Qq0tLPUEjfDaJQnyDmg8oDJbU9R2cdsmZwmidB1-Jt6mo/w1259-h944-no/" width="400" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Everything on and looking fairly well!</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIjxiurpeZJve7w4xvIwU8vzx6083ZgYG4hTwcj-dIcwlPiwWmyK3NLo99kkOyiWlKCdoR7wnDdAuG_r5KDLRGfctR-zWWk3YRNTvtJK0VLoqiGY9u0nAeqwktG9Y7CKrqlP-oWckAp44/w1259-h944-no/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="944" data-original-width="1259" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIjxiurpeZJve7w4xvIwU8vzx6083ZgYG4hTwcj-dIcwlPiwWmyK3NLo99kkOyiWlKCdoR7wnDdAuG_r5KDLRGfctR-zWWk3YRNTvtJK0VLoqiGY9u0nAeqwktG9Y7CKrqlP-oWckAp44/w1259-h944-no/" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy6oOReY8bRQyG0trjwfTNnZMRZW2NwnGPjTfLqdtuff0N_MwcZ5rnsknwJaez6zNvdl-8oxpipSK69LQFfRQAWjXY65vuN2raBo_9UlWVoMoulD4HQbVO8B9lXfQqXtetCPsu5GYEZkg/w708-h944-no/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="944" data-original-width="708" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy6oOReY8bRQyG0trjwfTNnZMRZW2NwnGPjTfLqdtuff0N_MwcZ5rnsknwJaez6zNvdl-8oxpipSK69LQFfRQAWjXY65vuN2raBo_9UlWVoMoulD4HQbVO8B9lXfQqXtetCPsu5GYEZkg/w708-h944-no/" width="300" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Once the main part was fitted it was time to figure out what else needed changing. </span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">The CBR ignition barrel did fit the GSXR top clamp but the steering lock did not work so I removed the lug from the frame. That may have been the first irreversible action of the project!</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">The steering damper mounting lug needed to be removed from the GSXR lower clamp to clear the false air inlet ducts.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">As the GSXR forks were wider, they fouled the front fairing and false air ducts. Removing a small amount of material from the ducts and fairing fixed that. The fuse box was also removed and replaced with 4off sealed individual fuse holders to make room. </span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">The brake setup took the longest to get right. I am very particular how I want my brakes to feel and I found the stock CBR brakes felt close to perfect for my liking. </span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">I was using a post-recall GSXR master cylinder with the standard GSXR600 calipers but I found that combination too soft for my liking although the braking power was excellent. </span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">I had at one point acquired a set of K2 GSXR1000 calipers by accident which had 2off smaller pistons per caliper than the GSXR600 units so I tried these on the bike and found a massive improvement.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">I had a bit of a clearance issue with the post-recall GSXR master cylinder though. The top entry fluid hose fouled on the mirror stay bracket & nose fairing of the CBR so I had to find an alternative. I scoured eBay for radial master cylinders that had either side or bottom entry fluid feed hoses. One attractive option was the Brembo unit from a B14 Yamaha R1. </span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Before spending money on yet another part, I did some calculations on all the combinations of all the parts I had to hand to try and quantify the differences in feel and braking power and map the results out to find the best solution.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBC_dMKH5Vwa__h6IOY1B1OnYhOJ-ujOuYa-TfAjTRatoKcFmOEwvxam6zTkCY_jqHUPVO_tdfCQwvPcr8YYdmEGadPClmUIqnL6LeUztCStjbbmPQwzEOPRpZaRDyoLE3-Eb7nNgvIg4/w1036-h676-no/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="676" data-original-width="1036" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBC_dMKH5Vwa__h6IOY1B1OnYhOJ-ujOuYa-TfAjTRatoKcFmOEwvxam6zTkCY_jqHUPVO_tdfCQwvPcr8YYdmEGadPClmUIqnL6LeUztCStjbbmPQwzEOPRpZaRDyoLE3-Eb7nNgvIg4/w1036-h676-no/" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">It turned out the R1 master cylinder coupled with the K2 GSXR1000 calipers worked very well. Subsequent testing proved that so that has become my final setup.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Clearance under the nose fairing was also tight enough to foul most fluid reservoirs so I had originally employed a HRC style hose fluid reservoir. This worked well until one day after a session of heavy braking I felt excessive drag on the front wheel. There was not enough room in the hose reservoir to allow expansion of the heated fluid. I needed to find a proper reservoir to fit. </span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">After more trawling through eBay the Triumph 675 Daytona reservoir looked suitable so I took a chance on it. It fit perfectly under the nose fairing!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4-1dYVt3jZDWO2XnI8Y-zl_5JnpMXXBlGsJ76oj_2-xsUsQvbMS_Pd7b0Iwf_i5MAiAV72mNAOCsMJ2AYqGcgvuVQ0g5A4F1c1uJzZSXsKy78zlgK0jynt5wY8u6jhy0X34tdzA8JJpY/w1259-h944-no/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="944" data-original-width="1259" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4-1dYVt3jZDWO2XnI8Y-zl_5JnpMXXBlGsJ76oj_2-xsUsQvbMS_Pd7b0Iwf_i5MAiAV72mNAOCsMJ2AYqGcgvuVQ0g5A4F1c1uJzZSXsKy78zlgK0jynt5wY8u6jhy0X34tdzA8JJpY/w1259-h944-no/" width="400" /></a></span></div>
</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHw4DmjBkR1iCw2ogL3Po8vRB7xYyKQvC1_f6Jp1PL-xPiFXEZUkzBI19imEm7chOb5wrRvgrqFLj2_rp9ad9UTlA1KduU8zftvWdcrkL79wFxo0Oh9VuyT_Ai6sMtFjNn1qM8VGMTJ_Q/w1420-h944-no/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="944" data-original-width="1420" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHw4DmjBkR1iCw2ogL3Po8vRB7xYyKQvC1_f6Jp1PL-xPiFXEZUkzBI19imEm7chOb5wrRvgrqFLj2_rp9ad9UTlA1KduU8zftvWdcrkL79wFxo0Oh9VuyT_Ai6sMtFjNn1qM8VGMTJ_Q/w1420-h944-no/" width="400" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">It took some time to get to the optimum setup but the result is worth it. Between the upgraded front end and the new rear shock the bike handles great! Final front end configuration as follows.</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Forks Axle & Triple Tree: K4 GSXR600</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Calipers: K2 GSXR1000</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Wheel: CBR250RR</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Disks: CBR900RR</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Master Cylinder: B14 R1</span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Reservoir: 675 Daytona</span></div>
</div>
motthomashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11930265085871789924noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4168720258672520292.post-6252648147459378982019-11-26T20:53:00.001+00:002019-11-29T06:03:30.939+00:00Wheel Speed Sensor Bracket<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">Way back in 2014 when I had mostly completed the front end conversion and installed the Koso dash, I did not pay a huge amount of attention to the dash wheel speed sensor installation. I simply used the supplied sensor & L-bracket and used a longer fairing bolt to fix it inside the front fender and keep it out of sight.<br>
<br>
There were obvious issues with this installation. Because the fairing bolt was M6 and the L-bracket was designed to accept an M8 bolt, the fit was very sloppy. I was also tightening the bracket onto the back face of the cast fork lower which was never meant to have anything seated on it and so was not finished flat. I was able to improve the situation using 2off DIN 9021 washers either side of the bracket but the installation was then very awkward to fit and adjust having many parts that needed to be held in place and barely having enough space to get a hand in between the fender & wheel.<br>
Also, every time the fender or forks needed to be removed, the sensor position needed to be manually set again on assembly.<br>
<br>
Recently I have acquired an FDM 3D printer and so it presented a good opportunity to make a nicer and more user friendly bracket to hold the wheel speed sensor in the correct position and make removal & installation much easier.<br>
I also decided to replace the supplied Koso sensor with another, smaller sensor which would help to make the installation tidier.<br>
<br>
My idea was to design a one-piece bracket that would be sandwiched between the front fender and the cast fork lower. The bracket would need to be located using both fairing bolts which would ensure the sensor would always be installed in the correct position.<br>
Replacing the standard Koso sensor with the smaller unit also had the advantage that the smaller sensor has a threaded body and therefore can be installed by sandwiching the bracket between 2off lock nuts. This makes the installation tidier and makes gap adjustment relatively easy.<br>
<br>
The Koso sensor is a simple hall effect sensor fed by 5V and whose signal is pulled high when a magnetic object passes by. The sensor I chose to replace it is one from RS Components (stock #304-172). The below image shows the size difference between the sensors.<br>
<br>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDdSHundDDEUQpUr8OV_y0BDxqe60LxeRM-ki0vTgJdRZz8O0oOJO4QK6qAAyI6i9w0KERXVahEDg2YnhKzw_vDc3N8_FAkDE_YwcdnhpP2o6MvwarsPRkrqQ6ds1FBhVfGasorOr_Ph8/w1259-h944-no/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="944" data-original-width="1259" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDdSHundDDEUQpUr8OV_y0BDxqe60LxeRM-ki0vTgJdRZz8O0oOJO4QK6qAAyI6i9w0KERXVahEDg2YnhKzw_vDc3N8_FAkDE_YwcdnhpP2o6MvwarsPRkrqQ6ds1FBhVfGasorOr_Ph8/w1259-h944-no/" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sensor Comparison</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br>
<br>
The basic design of the bracket is straightforward. The "ears" which are clamped between the fender & fork leg were kept as thin as possible while still having enough stiffness to keep the sensor in position. Steel compression limiters were also added to the mounting holes to allow the fairing bolts to be torqued down properly without risking damaging the plastic bracket.<br>
The sensor is located inside a round bore which incorporates a recessed internal hex for one of the sensor lock nuts. The second lock nut is then tightened onto a flat at the nose of the bracket.<br>
<br>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7bkfTF1Y-2wWOXpLf8Cr4lmAdrWq3XvlyFZ5AqFZywoJ6cQ0w09hHKeRMKjZmdMORrngAWgpotUQvb9qNSgLR_LAUj33e2OXAQ4dR2pSMtcd2G0SvshuSaGDAizDNGxu9l4camGQd2tE/w1191-h726-no/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="726" data-original-width="1191" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7bkfTF1Y-2wWOXpLf8Cr4lmAdrWq3XvlyFZ5AqFZywoJ6cQ0w09hHKeRMKjZmdMORrngAWgpotUQvb9qNSgLR_LAUj33e2OXAQ4dR2pSMtcd2G0SvshuSaGDAizDNGxu9l4camGQd2tE/w1191-h726-no/" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bracket & Sensor CAD</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br>
The bracket was printed in ABS plastic. This may be exchanged for ASA to increase environmental resistance in the near future depending on how the ABS copes with general use. The stainless steel compression limiters were pressed into the printed part.<br>
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<br>
The bracket was then installed on the bike and the sensor gap adjusted to c.0.8mm.<br>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9fET2FlDMY0Z2omunXimTak60GBuU2-odIkjdMek0-iaY3Sl_Z6ToIFd3YR-S6iC47Slpbiwved_ZwIilbVUfKy9OpP5oPEfGMra6ks8U_-QuFry0vDy9hZU-o011XGfpEh2k4EalcVs/w531-h944-no/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="944" data-original-width="531" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9fET2FlDMY0Z2omunXimTak60GBuU2-odIkjdMek0-iaY3Sl_Z6ToIFd3YR-S6iC47Slpbiwved_ZwIilbVUfKy9OpP5oPEfGMra6ks8U_-QuFry0vDy9hZU-o011XGfpEh2k4EalcVs/w531-h944-no/" width="225"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Installed Sensor</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br>
The new sensor installation is much tidier and makes the front end easier to work on.<br>
<br>
The observant among readers may have noticed that the bracket in the CAD model does not match the printed bracket in the photos. That is because the CAD represents a later design revision. The bracket was originally designed to centre the sensor on the low head cap screws used as "teeth". However when I tested it, I found the smaller sensor tip was sometimes detecting the hex recess in the head of the bolt and so provided either unreliable or double frequency pulses to the dash.<br>
The issue was fixed by moving the sensor position radially outwards by 3mm. This made sure the sensor tip would only see a single solid "tooth" at each cap screw, resulting in reliable signal. </div>
motthomashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11930265085871789924noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4168720258672520292.post-26536228537145805252019-05-10T18:48:00.000+01:002019-11-29T05:58:03.070+00:00On-board Data Logging<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br>
Since last year, I have wanted to implement an on-board data logging system for the bike for a number of reasons.<br>
<br>
<ol style="text-align: left;">
<li>On-board logging would mean all trips could be data logged automatically without needing to consciously connect to the ECU and start logging.</li>
<li>Logging the engine data as broadcast via CAN-Bus would enable logging at a higher frequency than is available through the RS232 connection. 50Hz vs c.15Hz</li>
<li>The CAN-Bus data broadcast from the ECU also gives access to far more data channels than are available to log via RS232 which includes many very useful diagnostics channels and calculated channels which I feel really should be included in the RS232 data stream such as injector deadtime.</li>
<li>Having data log capabilities external to the ECU opens up the flexibility to add more data inputs either via CAN-Bus or analogue inputs. These could be additional engine sensors that are not currently required by the ECU to run the engine (oil pressure, oil temperature, EGT) or else they could also include chassis data such as brake pressure, GPS & IMU data, wheel speed, etc.</li>
</ol>
<div>
<br></div>
<div>
I found that most units on the market that would log CAN-Bus data were just too expensive for my needs so decided to use the opportunity to build on my existing skills and build my own.</div>
<ol style="text-align: left;">
</ol>
I decided to use the Teensy 3.2 development board as the heart of the logger mainly due to the on-chip CAN-Bus interface but also because of its small package size and ease of programming via Arduino IDE.<br>
<br>
The circuit layout and PCB design for the Teensy including the peripherals needed was relatively straight-forward. I was familiar with the CAN-Bus interface on the Teensy from other projects and, as a MicroSD socket and coin cell holder were the only other major components required, the physical aspect of the logger did not take long to complete.<br>
<br>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwQse7jEpsj08fmNonvFRxkE78fRa3QadKEUTAMMv-5ktgqRZYV3HWdCuoIoifqiKZZbagxnaL3v6mV_ZMW9fZ9HUL94BYMyahjaNcVJKQflOmHJAJfuUWqp1jwgMy2avSdtunSm8BFXo/s1600/CBR015-0002_CAN_DATALOGGER_ASSY_3D.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="604" data-original-width="868" height="277" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwQse7jEpsj08fmNonvFRxkE78fRa3QadKEUTAMMv-5ktgqRZYV3HWdCuoIoifqiKZZbagxnaL3v6mV_ZMW9fZ9HUL94BYMyahjaNcVJKQflOmHJAJfuUWqp1jwgMy2avSdtunSm8BFXo/s400/CBR015-0002_CAN_DATALOGGER_ASSY_3D.png" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Modelled Assembly</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTnonKs9BONkwHfeyvp183SpH68DdbxEJlbNeIt4wCv1Nqr0vCVBfByZ9IjVd6k8g7_dg3LbWMP0FTtyMNaRhDqpmLorZgbGBRTJyCsnYlghs8m4YgXljIy9rOsGdgdYbXVKqL00OvflQ/s1600/CBR015-0003_CAN_DATALOGGER_PCB.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="682" data-original-width="909" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTnonKs9BONkwHfeyvp183SpH68DdbxEJlbNeIt4wCv1Nqr0vCVBfByZ9IjVd6k8g7_dg3LbWMP0FTtyMNaRhDqpmLorZgbGBRTJyCsnYlghs8m4YgXljIy9rOsGdgdYbXVKqL00OvflQ/s400/CBR015-0003_CAN_DATALOGGER_PCB.PNG" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">PCB Layout</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGzM2CDmeywl6pu_xT94uWIJMv0CnXIFK1W1aJv71_65DsRVC0qruJxp-6LrOnlPbCEwn7BUm_pXIA1M8FroP80PnlCe6uVDOjUTiEi9xy-FDDm_JYSIDY0IojMT4c8ykOvYnKDLIip4k/s1600/20190510_183711.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGzM2CDmeywl6pu_xT94uWIJMv0CnXIFK1W1aJv71_65DsRVC0qruJxp-6LrOnlPbCEwn7BUm_pXIA1M8FroP80PnlCe6uVDOjUTiEi9xy-FDDm_JYSIDY0IojMT4c8ykOvYnKDLIip4k/s400/20190510_183711.jpg" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">PCB Board</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Ps3M-1QTJ-kekzLUQc7heFniYhn0IDWRVH38X_miglqE3q0pL72LVRo-PH3JdGQnrVsqDWyxZEkZkG1iX5oVwgkWDVXp0zoRFPJKfK5grt5B2rUPd9DO1kokGXx4H6kEQN9omB7l31U/s1600/DSC02754.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Ps3M-1QTJ-kekzLUQc7heFniYhn0IDWRVH38X_miglqE3q0pL72LVRo-PH3JdGQnrVsqDWyxZEkZkG1iX5oVwgkWDVXp0zoRFPJKfK5grt5B2rUPd9DO1kokGXx4H6kEQN9omB7l31U/s400/DSC02754.JPG" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Assembled Board</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br>
While the physical aspect was completed quite quickly, the software side of things took a bit of time to get to a state that worked well enough. While I was familiar with the CAN-Bus reading aspect, I had not had any experience with logging data to an SD Card so I went through a few iterations of code before settling on an approach that worked.<br>
As I do not come from a software/coding background, any of my microcontroller projects always start with existing code that does something similar to or a particular aspect of what I want and then modify it to my needs.<br>
<br>
The software workflow is relatively simple. On power-up, the microcontroller would read the date & time from the RTC and create a new data file on the SD card using the RTC timestamp in it's filename. This ensures unique filenames are used and makes the data easier to manage later.<br>
Once the file is created, the controller reads any data contained in the CAN-Bus recieve buffer and adds it to the appropriate position in a data struct. At defined intervals corresponding to the desired logging frequency, the data contained in the struct is written to the SD card. In between writing the data to the SD card, the controller cycles through reading the CAN-Bus buffer and passing the recieved data to the struct as quickly as possible.<br>
The cycle of data read & write is continued until power is removed from the module (i.e. ignition off). This does mean that there is the potential to lose some data not written to the card on power down but the period spanned by the lost data is unlikely to be more than 2-3 log intervals and is deemed acceptable for the purposes of the project.<br>
<br>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYy_PLsIJD3ifnNsJxiLjiTmoJ10krWWJIDwg52NMniLNnA23S34dDdBAVS17sIYjllkhwh_jNEjlM-XStwNjI5djaTuuehnlRgWi1ELrD3mxmvnmvRcfaRhZMo6FDoz46WQbSj6PIN8s/s1600/CBR015-0002_CODE_MAIN_LOOP.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="499" data-original-width="389" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYy_PLsIJD3ifnNsJxiLjiTmoJ10krWWJIDwg52NMniLNnA23S34dDdBAVS17sIYjllkhwh_jNEjlM-XStwNjI5djaTuuehnlRgWi1ELrD3mxmvnmvRcfaRhZMo6FDoz46WQbSj6PIN8s/s400/CBR015-0002_CODE_MAIN_LOOP.PNG" width="311"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Software Main Loop Basic Workflow</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br>
Writing data to the SD card was very straightforward as long as the number of parameters and logging frequency was kept low but problems started cropping up when more parameters were added to the datastream and the rate was pushed higher than c.10Hz.<br>
<br>
I began by wanting to log data to a human readable .csv file on the SD card purely for convenience. However, with the number of data channels I wanted to log I ran into issues with SD card write latency at write speeds above c.10Hz which was causing me to lose a number of data points every now and then while the program waited for the SD card to finish writing. I could help the issue by adding data to a single long data string and then writing that to the SD in one go. However, the data string took up too much memory with the number of channels I was trying to log so it was not really a viable option. This also didn't completely eliminate the issue.<br>
<br>
In the end, after experimenting with minor changes to the same basic method, I opted to write the data to the SD card in binary format and then post process the data after it had been downloaded from the SD card to create human readable .csv files with headers.<br>
By writing the data in binary format, I was able to use a C struct to contain the data variables which was much easier to update within the software and also very easy to simply write the entire struct to the log file whenever it was needed. It also seems to have made the SD write latency issues disappear. I have not yet verified data frequency consistency over a long period of time and at higher logging rates at the time of writing but I have verified writing over 60 data channels to the card at 20Hz for several minutes without any loss of data. While logging directly to .csv file, I was getting data inconsistencies even with only 10off data channels and 10Hz logging rate.<br>
<br>
The post processing script was written in GNU Octave which is an open source alternative to Matlab. The script is written in a way that it reads information about the C struct (variable names, units and precision) from a text configuration file so that it knows how to interpret the binary data. The script then reads the raw binary file, arranges the data into a matrix which matches the configuration file input and writes the processed data matrix to a .csv file along with header lines that define the channel names & units. The necessity to have a configuration file which matches the logger C struct means that I need to be particularly meticulous when it comes to documenting changes to the logger software and I need to have good version control. <br>
<br>
Version 1.0 of the logger software & post processing script leaves some room for improvement but I am happy that I have an easy to use and reliable datalogger that I can fit to the bike and use while I work on further improvements.<br>
<br>
Some improvements which I have in mind are:<br>
<ol style="text-align: left;">
<li>Remove the CAN message processing from the Teensy software and log raw message values. The post processing script will be capable of doing the data conversion as well as the binary to decimal conversion. Removing the processing from the logger just means that I can free up some processing power & main loop time to help increase reliability at higher data rates. Logging single bytes also will have the advantage of reducing the size of the struct as it currently pads variables out to the largest precision value (32-bit float). If all variables to be logged are full CAN message data sizes (64-bit) there will be no need for any additional padding.</li>
<li>Add one or more data buffers to the logger software. This should help logging reliability and increase the potential logging rate by not requiring the SD card to be ready for writing on each data write loop. </li>
</ol>
<br>
<br>
I 3D printed an enclosure for the board in ABS plastic. The case is not fully sealed as I have left a slot in the side to allow me to remove & insert the SD card without opening the case.<br>
<br>
To complete the logger connection to the bike, I made up a short adapter harness which is sleeved & booted at the connector end. The adapter harness is then cable tied to the PCB board via 2off small slots which I had cut in the board for this very purpose. This just serves to provide some strain relief for the header pins & socket. I also printed a wire seal from TPU as an experiment to help seal the area where the harness exits the case. I also added a label to the harness to identify the module. Because.... well... it looks nice.<br>
<br>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyks68u5-fcs7Fraa9qDMlO6kw4FoDsxVMWyOqdmnJ60fPgHQDQzTRSFLBVF1UDB3OeAMvMq_6oasYvkAWQu5jYT9hMZvdpz6mLE-Vpkt32d_toWJt99WCpHoywaxCHBiEWvIsy8lWS-M/s1600/20190511_205349.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyks68u5-fcs7Fraa9qDMlO6kw4FoDsxVMWyOqdmnJ60fPgHQDQzTRSFLBVF1UDB3OeAMvMq_6oasYvkAWQu5jYT9hMZvdpz6mLE-Vpkt32d_toWJt99WCpHoywaxCHBiEWvIsy8lWS-M/s400/20190511_205349.jpg" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bike interface connector</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiR07Akk6x8HdPJcI6UbQjejdXvwBprY6EKc5wcarSjjLf-tMptCmizzyQFHsynUi7EU2vaNuNx3SLyCZ4pfzsL29q3yvdgzYnsrPqA1skXsCo4gR0cM3Z7yQYr-eTfiOoplama0JS9N4/s1600/20190511_205432.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiR07Akk6x8HdPJcI6UbQjejdXvwBprY6EKc5wcarSjjLf-tMptCmizzyQFHsynUi7EU2vaNuNx3SLyCZ4pfzsL29q3yvdgzYnsrPqA1skXsCo4gR0cM3Z7yQYr-eTfiOoplama0JS9N4/s400/20190511_205432.jpg" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adapter harness in position</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5IactsboCBfPnqGpKaPW5LryLoOiKurf9w85qFQ2GI4wneSPf-8CNUxwnSwy77N-ltLGTOO0jxTtDD-y4bG2VEk-T7H3oe_8j6x_d0n4jtxNxzFCMsoB8pcYLz_dZvIm0uxY-lE6y0oo/s1600/20190511_205726.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5IactsboCBfPnqGpKaPW5LryLoOiKurf9w85qFQ2GI4wneSPf-8CNUxwnSwy77N-ltLGTOO0jxTtDD-y4bG2VEk-T7H3oe_8j6x_d0n4jtxNxzFCMsoB8pcYLz_dZvIm0uxY-lE6y0oo/s400/20190511_205726.jpg" width="400"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Case with cable seal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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motthomashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11930265085871789924noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4168720258672520292.post-78580130795181441742019-05-06T19:31:00.003+01:002019-05-06T19:31:40.095+01:00Making an Exhaust Silencer<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
It has been quite a while since I updated this! Apologies. I need to be more diligent in posting updates.<br />
<br />
<br />
During
my last track day of 2017, the exhaust silencer on the TSR system
suffered a mild failure where the perforated tube broke off from the
main body and dropped down into the link pipe.<br />
<br />
I
treated this failure as a perfect opportunity to get a new silencer for
the bike. I had thought that the silencer that came with the TSR system
looked tired and was also too long to suit the look of the bike.<br />
<br />
Naturally, option #1 was to purchase a ready made exhaust silencer from an aftermarket supplier and do a straight swap. Unfortunately,
I found that the entry diameter for the TSR silencer is not very common
(45mm) and while it was possible to purchase a direct fit silencer from
one or two aftermarket manufacturers, all the exhaust designs were
either far too short or had far too large an exit diameter to suit my
taste. I did not want the silencer to look like a race style or a
stubby.<br />
<br />
Option #2 was to request one of the UK-based
exhaust manufacturers to make a silencer with a bespoke entry design
to suit the TSR link pipe. This seemed like a good route to begin with but as the design progressed, it became clear
that the entry pipe design would be compromised by an external diameter
change to allow the manufacturer's standard tooling to fit. The silencer
would have had a swaged neck in the entry pipe which I felt would have
looked unsightly on the finished product.<br />
<br />
Option #3 was
to attempt to repair the original silencer myself. I found a local supplier from whom I could purchase carbon tube in the correct diameter (also not standard) as well as the
perforated tube and packing material for reasonable cost so the decision
was made to have a go at doing it myself.<br />
<br />
The optimum
aesthetic length of the silencer was chosen by applying some basic
photoshop "skills" to a photo of the bike and I decided to reduce the
silencer length from 450mm to 350mm. This made the silencer look much
more in proportion to the rest of the bike in my opinion but without
making it look like a short stubby silencer.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidmsz4vqjJ0q_z6KO6mD9Kx_H0F-u4M8BoKM8yBXDzoxjLSRqnQYonnjV54FhjE-_uOwb5jUXSNUhVtpwidaXOcdHyOKUJa5Xph4bR0IQeN6BH4qMyflsSyPqnJtyUCfMyr4t97699PrM/s1600/Bike_%2526_Exh.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1063" data-original-width="1600" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidmsz4vqjJ0q_z6KO6mD9Kx_H0F-u4M8BoKM8yBXDzoxjLSRqnQYonnjV54FhjE-_uOwb5jUXSNUhVtpwidaXOcdHyOKUJa5Xph4bR0IQeN6BH4qMyflsSyPqnJtyUCfMyr4t97699PrM/s320/Bike_%2526_Exh.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUdZWRWi1PM0rxCS-Ivcqvo442wFezTpgHTkR4-8AWgWOdkv9ec5HfUvvbMmKGQ1oPtX9Yq6EYvbi4wB16AVfaqf1VZFOOY_DRtB0B4k77rr-9qpMCP6yuRV4qnUn8PQesSyU4i2bt9uA/s1600/Bike_350mm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1063" data-original-width="1600" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUdZWRWi1PM0rxCS-Ivcqvo442wFezTpgHTkR4-8AWgWOdkv9ec5HfUvvbMmKGQ1oPtX9Yq6EYvbi4wB16AVfaqf1VZFOOY_DRtB0B4k77rr-9qpMCP6yuRV4qnUn8PQesSyU4i2bt9uA/s320/Bike_350mm.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">350mm</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBHbDYpcaQ290TznyQ3Mu-z2JmBYVE5rHGSrUBPhLt4ufg67rIJMN9yU3cNPRpB9sGgfoiPLjugWYb4hNuWMoYLQaGQii7cIL1YQOjgR6FR8CHp2QMkn8lUc6uvWhMirbHFteaPhJYYK8/s1600/Bike_300mm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1063" data-original-width="1600" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBHbDYpcaQ290TznyQ3Mu-z2JmBYVE5rHGSrUBPhLt4ufg67rIJMN9yU3cNPRpB9sGgfoiPLjugWYb4hNuWMoYLQaGQii7cIL1YQOjgR6FR8CHp2QMkn8lUc6uvWhMirbHFteaPhJYYK8/s320/Bike_300mm.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">300mm</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTp23DEWzYaroLuyQ5seoF6iZ6DEOmsd41dhKKJGTlrBtxq_NDBXITPW9NrdmC1iBUES9LK8c2Xgx5FoD6Okkmr4n0EA4_9SB7HhCRa2YtcF9LqImpanuE_NPfFkGUywD0ozqMNWo1o84/s1600/Bike_250mm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1063" data-original-width="1600" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTp23DEWzYaroLuyQ5seoF6iZ6DEOmsd41dhKKJGTlrBtxq_NDBXITPW9NrdmC1iBUES9LK8c2Xgx5FoD6Okkmr4n0EA4_9SB7HhCRa2YtcF9LqImpanuE_NPfFkGUywD0ozqMNWo1o84/s320/Bike_250mm.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">250mm</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
When the old TSR silencer was dismantled, a few items stuck out as needing to be changed.<br />
<br />
<ol style="text-align: left;">
<li>The rivet holes in the old end caps had been damaged so most were
oversize. To provide a better surface for the rivets to hold on to, a
new strip of stainless steel would be added inside the end caps</li>
<li>The old perforated tube was smaller than the silencer entry diameter
and was only tack welded to the end cap in 2 places. It was also not
supported at the exit end of the silencer which allowed it to vibrate
and eventually break the tack welds and fall down into the link pipe. I
sized the replacement perforated tube to be nicely supported on the exit
end. As this still left the diameter of the perforated tube smaller
than the entry diameter, I flared the end of the perforated tube to
match and welded it fully around its circumference.</li>
<li>The sleeve of the TSR silencer had been riveted directly to the end
caps. I wanted to add rivet straps at each end both to provide a barrier
between the rivets and the carbon sleeve and to provide a decorative
finish to the silencer. </li>
</ol>
<br />
First the silencer assembly was modelled in 3D to ensure all parts fit as intended.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqm3z3fFZkQQD3jTuQxz1xtV3gD-wm7z5Fn1p28tjXfxJWd1Qbm_8WAajhpkR81icLiFAD5rKBuvQcEjmRliCWTgqBYsom5vZ6uXO1yepGsP2bPOI5zWMvLnQsBwtYVy-4X85qa1Z2U5w/s1600/Silencer_Drawing.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="518" data-original-width="947" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqm3z3fFZkQQD3jTuQxz1xtV3gD-wm7z5Fn1p28tjXfxJWd1Qbm_8WAajhpkR81icLiFAD5rKBuvQcEjmRliCWTgqBYsom5vZ6uXO1yepGsP2bPOI5zWMvLnQsBwtYVy-4X85qa1Z2U5w/s400/Silencer_Drawing.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Modelling the exhaust assembly allowed me to get the rivet straps just right. The profile was laser cut from stainless steel sheet and bent into shape.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPErnxkpl-zAsrH14dBiS9-_KuVX00xF5s5gYKWvJm-27sOzSAOYijAmaxKRVOwIOO-gebregPkWhivvRgguQfiWGAB-LJR9X8teOJq8bAH6JBT5snCix_quLhuxGWYIgMykaPNAZCUPA/s1600/DSC02509.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPErnxkpl-zAsrH14dBiS9-_KuVX00xF5s5gYKWvJm-27sOzSAOYijAmaxKRVOwIOO-gebregPkWhivvRgguQfiWGAB-LJR9X8teOJq8bAH6JBT5snCix_quLhuxGWYIgMykaPNAZCUPA/s400/DSC02509.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The perforated tube was flared and welded to the entry cap.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_NxXQDW0MZVGuIEKTVJs48c6m1-gsC0FQO1yDhfKyjGXqhUiUvPHpJ-sWA60EJBlkKjDdXermhOFzBUqRdiIFhVd-OY4aIHiwUocgqZrSI9-bPcQPi6iYRpyO5aQ0P3OWFy0eIqaJXAU/s1600/20180405_215755.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_NxXQDW0MZVGuIEKTVJs48c6m1-gsC0FQO1yDhfKyjGXqhUiUvPHpJ-sWA60EJBlkKjDdXermhOFzBUqRdiIFhVd-OY4aIHiwUocgqZrSI9-bPcQPi6iYRpyO5aQ0P3OWFy0eIqaJXAU/s400/20180405_215755.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
The silencer was first dry assembled using clecos and test fitted to the bike.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0IwY4sAs4Zgd5rMaZYsczvoD7F-gHZpPjBY_NZRk_6IWxuJJbNrrijWA-5Q9Bi-7g94yaasdu94Lz9B1ZyATFk5lVGKTQl_I0_HHqDOoL_IvuAnjYn1ZrlAEeBENyr5oKA1oDdr97WOo/s1600/20180416_230751.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0IwY4sAs4Zgd5rMaZYsczvoD7F-gHZpPjBY_NZRk_6IWxuJJbNrrijWA-5Q9Bi-7g94yaasdu94Lz9B1ZyATFk5lVGKTQl_I0_HHqDOoL_IvuAnjYn1ZrlAEeBENyr5oKA1oDdr97WOo/s400/20180416_230751.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Then the parts were riveted together.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaX1P_Y1XpNQN1T_sFqGR-4ddUteSwP9MnqC7fm1OXTLPyIPX1-hrhvIBdveF2ApbZZ2CfgaHO1VLg-bBYbf0_v_fxKnZDgQk_c6SDKSCHm4Rrxsgq1P0a-LNzn82obA8-xCAYt6o01cU/s1600/20180419_193156.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaX1P_Y1XpNQN1T_sFqGR-4ddUteSwP9MnqC7fm1OXTLPyIPX1-hrhvIBdveF2ApbZZ2CfgaHO1VLg-bBYbf0_v_fxKnZDgQk_c6SDKSCHm4Rrxsgq1P0a-LNzn82obA8-xCAYt6o01cU/s400/20180419_193156.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
And the packing material added.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHDy09s3iTW1us3i8fK81j2njdvs8xRZ-uPtAFBWW3t2PC8BvU18eiaTlDLWqXSabP1LfS9UT7Oibet4bS0ltufR6IoPbK53xEhzWNWuTYqahVySSjywphf107NofUuj2CCn2LdMxPLCA/s1600/20180419_194510.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHDy09s3iTW1us3i8fK81j2njdvs8xRZ-uPtAFBWW3t2PC8BvU18eiaTlDLWqXSabP1LfS9UT7Oibet4bS0ltufR6IoPbK53xEhzWNWuTYqahVySSjywphf107NofUuj2CCn2LdMxPLCA/s400/20180419_194510.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
Overall, the repaired silencer looks much better in my opinion and makes for a cleaner look than the old TSR silencer.
The sound from the exhaust is not significantly different from before so
that is a plus. There are a few things I would improve on or do
differently if I was to do the job again but I am happy with the end
result.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPg4BFxGIcBRY4yCzDTnLCU1Kw0u0BWgJakqoC4lLo9SlHEVVeHJSx4vd91tqh7EI-Oxn5MbmFNAw1ZSER1kW1rumVImu8zZnVTjuD1LIUEQzMESU2o2Gy9Ss74Ql2W-QgqMgFJPxMj_M/s1600/WhatsApp+Image+2018-07-28+at+08.54.34.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1064" data-original-width="1600" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPg4BFxGIcBRY4yCzDTnLCU1Kw0u0BWgJakqoC4lLo9SlHEVVeHJSx4vd91tqh7EI-Oxn5MbmFNAw1ZSER1kW1rumVImu8zZnVTjuD1LIUEQzMESU2o2Gy9Ss74Ql2W-QgqMgFJPxMj_M/s400/WhatsApp+Image+2018-07-28+at+08.54.34.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
motthomashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11930265085871789924noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4168720258672520292.post-25443127369743614442018-01-16T10:14:00.001+00:002018-01-16T10:14:36.233+00:00Rear Shock & Track Sessions<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I just realised that I never updated this blog in the later half of last year so I owe it to people now even if it is a few months late coming.<br />
<br />
Since the last update, I haven’t done a lot more with the EFI side of things other than improve the cold starts.<br />
<br />
I ended up doing two more track days on the bike in 2017 which were in the dry so I could really see the areas which needed improving on the bike.<br />
The first track session was carried out with the same setup as I had run in Mallory Park in February 2017. This session highlighted that the back shock was way underdamped and also a little undersprung. (not that I didn't know that already) I also felt I lacked just a little bit of drive out of corners but felt that was mostly my own fault for not being spot on with my gears.<br />
<br />
<br />
After that first track session, I made the following changes to the setup<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<ol>
<li>Installed new custom rear shock</li>
<li>Set up front and rear preload to my weight with the new shock</li>
<li>Installed 54T rear sprocket for slightly shorter gearing</li>
</ol>
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
I had purchased a Nitron rear shock some years back supposedly designed to fit the mc22. When I came to fit it, it became clear the top mount was too large and fouled the frame. Nitron advised the frame would need to be ground down to make the shock fit which I was not willing to do. I made several enquiries in the years that followed to try and find a proper replacement shock for the basic and now tired stock unit. Penske were the only other company that listed a shock to fit the mc22 but that had the same issue as the Nitron. The issue was actually worse as their top mount was larger and so would need even more material ground from the frame. I approached BG Motorsport, my local Ohlins dealer, some time back about building a custom shock specifically to fit the mc22 with my requirements built in and they were quite happy to relieve me of some cash to build a unit for me.<br />
<br />
The shock was completed at the end of June and I must say I was very happy with how the whole package turned out. The entire assembly including the remote reservoir fits nicely under the stock fairings making it quite discreet.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOZZOaKQZzK5JcGxgst9WjxQzy96YsDNyqeYa3uFMQsfNu8LtuBOahXdm4p59-jbSiW7cBXJDkrMqnPajofYuIdrRXiGmeD8fZDPrdRlpkVMyHiQbFhQ1dOkd7jVwvR6eMNI6J7_eXF04/s1600/20170702_161245.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOZZOaKQZzK5JcGxgst9WjxQzy96YsDNyqeYa3uFMQsfNu8LtuBOahXdm4p59-jbSiW7cBXJDkrMqnPajofYuIdrRXiGmeD8fZDPrdRlpkVMyHiQbFhQ1dOkd7jVwvR6eMNI6J7_eXF04/s400/20170702_161245.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rear Shock Installation - RH Side</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVT3hieSqi8VeMS3hdThRQk4Yb2O-vKU_EIP-2ZYx-KhFEgbFk_H9QRFUjDYcRTdrMXgG_8yCf_Ttnio3BH2tsf4ka6v22jC00ESjwLxM2MkRA7OkCJ1_gYUTKVY-4lU464qiplPPqRyQ/s1600/20170702_161259.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVT3hieSqi8VeMS3hdThRQk4Yb2O-vKU_EIP-2ZYx-KhFEgbFk_H9QRFUjDYcRTdrMXgG_8yCf_Ttnio3BH2tsf4ka6v22jC00ESjwLxM2MkRA7OkCJ1_gYUTKVY-4lU464qiplPPqRyQ/s400/20170702_161259.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rear Shock Installation - LH Side</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
From the get-go, the improvement the shock made to the handling was obvious. Even without making any adjustments, the bike tracked the road much better and felt much more stable on the road compared to the stock unit.<br />
<br />
After setting the preload on the front & rear to my weight, this improvement just got bigger.<br />
<br />
I also installed a 54T rear sprocket on the bike to get slightly shorter gearing. This was the shortest I could go while sticking with the standard 428 pitch chain. I may look into the 520 conversion in the future to give me more gearing options.<br />
<br />
On the second track session after the above adjustments were made, the difference in handling was night and day. I am extremely happy with the way the bike handles now compared to the stock setup. I do have a few more items on the wishlist but these are things that will get done over time.<br />
<br />
I have been playing around a bit with some software that overlays data from the ECU onto video which seems to work quite nicely. The GPS data was captured from a smartphone so it is not very accurate and lags a bit. That just affects the track map and lap times really. Still, it makes it very handy to review the video and get an idea of what the bike was doing when.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/PZS_kM90Bi0/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/PZS_kM90Bi0?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
<br /></div>
motthomashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11930265085871789924noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4168720258672520292.post-29267241280937426882017-03-01T20:02:00.002+00:002017-03-01T20:02:10.746+00:00EGT Instrumentation & Dyno Calibration<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<b>EGT Instrumentation</b><br /><br />To try and close out the base fuel & spark calibration once & for all, a deadline of mid February was imposed by booking a track day at Mallory Park. That provided some additional incentive to get the bike on a dyno in January to do the base calibration. <br /><br />First, a few small loose ends on the electronics side needed to be tidied up. One of these was to try and implement EGT measurement to provide a second metric to determine optimum fuelling and make sure exhaust port temperatures were under control. <br /><br />Initially the plan was to simply read EGT values and display them on a screen live and then keep an eye on them while running the bike on the dyno. <br /><br />However, there would be several advantages to being able to feed the data into the ECU so that it could be logged with all other engine parameters. Unfortunately, due to the limited I/O capacity of the Microsquirt ECU, the only way of getting four additional data streams into the ECU would be via CAN-Bus. That meant using a microcontroller to read the EGT data from thermocouple amplifiers, arrange the data into a CAN message in a format that the Microsquirt could read and load the message onto the bus. <br /><br />To prove the concept, an Arduino Uno and CAN Shield were used to get the data processing & CAN code working together properly. The Megasquirt CAN-Bus protocol was the most difficult part of the task as it is quite different from the standard 11-bit or 29-bit header protocol that I am familiar with. <br /><br />Once the hardware and code combination was proven, a single PCB was designed and manufactured which used an Arduino Micro as the controller and contained the thermocouple amplifiers, CAN controller, CAN transceiver and other peripherals that were required to make the board work on the bike. The finished board is quite large due to being conservative about component spacing to allow hand soldering of components and only used one side of the board for component placement. For future PCBs, component spacing could be tightened up, a dual layer PCB and a microcontroller with inbuilt CAN controller could be used to significantly reduce the board footprint. <br />A protective case for the completed board was 3D printed.<br /><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcBrgHn-XXvS3tgwV5x8oK1W6vLFnyHDGZFGANT1sHIVU5532r3F4jMGI47xQjir2JZThdWrWicmSdgfYP86dMzaZNRj0r2HDekILi0PBPnCRYL06Ig9QOugnwQi9H01s5W0irxOVZUUM/s1600/P1180473.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcBrgHn-XXvS3tgwV5x8oK1W6vLFnyHDGZFGANT1sHIVU5532r3F4jMGI47xQjir2JZThdWrWicmSdgfYP86dMzaZNRj0r2HDekILi0PBPnCRYL06Ig9QOugnwQi9H01s5W0irxOVZUUM/s400/P1180473.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">EGT CAN-Bus Module Board</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGhrTBS4ufAtSqPeKyivMekRr4frhw6ulMLEQXebg4UuUuMsSU72hHUCuNG9HeNoW936KXG78Q1R-LXITSoOX7-S9oaxM8s47GG7Gc-Lie47eyVZWMeF_KBLvrMapVOrKpcgo-2-X7Eso/s1600/P1180476.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGhrTBS4ufAtSqPeKyivMekRr4frhw6ulMLEQXebg4UuUuMsSU72hHUCuNG9HeNoW936KXG78Q1R-LXITSoOX7-S9oaxM8s47GG7Gc-Lie47eyVZWMeF_KBLvrMapVOrKpcgo-2-X7Eso/s400/P1180476.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cased Board</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />On the instrumentation side, 1.5mm K-Type thermocouples were installed as close to the exhaust ports as possible using compression fittings without interfering with the fitment of the radiator or making exhaust fitment difficult. The small diameter probes would allow shorter temperature stabilisation but at the expense of thermocouple life. This was determined to be a reasonable compromise as the main purpose of the thermocouples was to monitor temperatures during dyno runs and short road tests only. As they would not be used for long term control, durability was not deemed critical. <br /><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiUUHDWi6XIOS5YTXIx-7MMiJ-X5aXQqE7DrnKSTT2Ym58slZ5XmXV5JkW1faBSSn4KXnFSBMAUKxYoU1dnMTmTS09STMB2507rAt0XxyVNEp9137y7W4PjHk9aOkU40VMDGz7kmvs0Vo/s1600/P1210482.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiUUHDWi6XIOS5YTXIx-7MMiJ-X5aXQqE7DrnKSTT2Ym58slZ5XmXV5JkW1faBSSn4KXnFSBMAUKxYoU1dnMTmTS09STMB2507rAt0XxyVNEp9137y7W4PjHk9aOkU40VMDGz7kmvs0Vo/s400/P1210482.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thermocouple Tip Position In The Exhaust</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinZxp9N86DCRVuAFyi4yQZS2nwkRWjlZKeKDjtZoPBf-ubOyPBqIAyJH4PXDeOiIHc2cypiLAilAAYdjZ39ks531par_ZMADVtpTTyRVKnBcnWoYxGQuTRCr_8_TyrMke_TbdK4-6ELxY/s1600/P1210486.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinZxp9N86DCRVuAFyi4yQZS2nwkRWjlZKeKDjtZoPBf-ubOyPBqIAyJH4PXDeOiIHc2cypiLAilAAYdjZ39ks531par_ZMADVtpTTyRVKnBcnWoYxGQuTRCr_8_TyrMke_TbdK4-6ELxY/s400/P1210486.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thermocouples & Flanges In Place</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><br /><b>Exhaust Header Flange Upgrade</b><br /><br />While the exhaust was removed for drilling & welding, the opportunity was grabbed to rectify the much annoying issue of the exhaust header flanges bending while the nuts were being torqued up on the studs. <br /><br />The problem with the Honda design is that the flanges do not clamp between the nut and the cylinder head but rather the flange is designed to be clear of the cylinder head when fully torqued up so the flange has a tendency to bend around the header collar as the nuts are being torqued up. This may not be an issue if the specified torque was always adhered to but on both sets of headers I have owned (OEM & TSR), the flanges had been bent previously. Bent flanges mean that more preload on the stud is required to achieve the same torque which only amplifies the issue and risks stripping the threads in the cylinder head. The studs also bend as the nut tries to sit flush with the flange which can make removing the flanges difficult. <br /><br />To try and combat this issue, a new set of flanges were laser cut from 316 stainless steel plate. Compared to the TSR exhaust flanges, the new design uses thicker material (8mm vs. 6mm) and also adds c.2mm of material around the outer profile. These changes have the effect of making the new flanges approx. 3 times more resistant to bending at their weakest point compared to the TSR flange.<br /><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RnDKxsCB9rM/WLMQHu4KtlI/AAAAAAAAQUk/ywZA8WZacpQcoSBUFW_4XNnh-T4wCyTnACPcB/s1600/IMG-20170117-WA0001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RnDKxsCB9rM/WLMQHu4KtlI/AAAAAAAAQUk/ywZA8WZacpQcoSBUFW_4XNnh-T4wCyTnACPcB/s400/IMG-20170117-WA0001.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Exhaust flange comparison, Redesign (left) vs. TSR (right)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><br />
<b>Dyno Fuel Calibration</b><br /><br />With the EGT instrumentation in place it was time to get the bike on the dyno and complete steady state fuel calibration. <br /><br />The dyno was an eddy current braked dyno which allowed any speed and load to be held for a period of time to ensure engine conditions could stabilise at each calibration point. The only downside was that as it was a car dyno designed for much higher power vehicles, it was impossible to hold the engine at the lower speeds and throttle angles. Therefore only the area above 4,000rpm & 10% throttle angle could be successfully mapped. As this represents the area where the majority of riding is carried out then that was not much of a problem.<br /><br />After the fuel mapping was carried out, an attempt was made to see if there was any additional power to be had in the ignition timing. The bike seemed to be very insensitive to part throttle, steady state ignition timing changes although this can be very difficult to judge on a chassis dyno, especially one with quite high inertia. <br /><br />A few full throttle pulls from 8,000rpm to 16,000rpm were carried out with varying ignition timing to determine what effect it had on engine power. Baseline timing was the Bluefox ECU timing. It was found that a global timing offset of -2° produced a negligible change to engine power. Both +2° & -4° global ignition timing offset produced measurable power losses across the engine speed range. Given that the Bluefox ignition map is c.1.5° more advanced than the OEM Honda curve in that region, it suggests that Honda did a pretty good job of mapping the engine to MBT timing from the factory. <br /><br />For anyone who cares about these things, the final figure on that particular dyno was 37 bhp measured at the rear wheel at 14,700rpm. No gains over the standard bike were expected with EFI and given the engine is in an unknown state of repair, it was considered a reasonable result. The bike was never dynoed before the EFI conversion and even if it had been, the comparison wouldn’t have been possible on the same dyno and therefore not comparable.<br /><br />It became apparent from studying the power & torque curves was that the original 18,000rpm rev limit is totally unnecessary as power drops off quite sharply after the peak. A graph of driving torque in each gear shows that there is no point in going faster than 16,000rpm in any gear as, above 16,000rpm, there will be more torque available in next gear up. As such, following the dyno testing, a soft limit at 16,500rpm and a hard limit at 16,700rpm was imposed with the aim to shift up at 16,000rpm.<br /><br /><span id="goog_1567119443"></span><span id="goog_1567119444"></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir_-tU20OV3ECD7VabB82GZLSOxygiUMDZCdSebbV7skg_PHmWIycs36olnNWh0JV0nrR1HRWBPEMYzf_E8wvcauuE0IxNV3jjcgIK9e4lyIXl2Aky-5SIFPVqEhuVSha-SLuVJhFDqlY/s1600/P1250493.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir_-tU20OV3ECD7VabB82GZLSOxygiUMDZCdSebbV7skg_PHmWIycs36olnNWh0JV0nrR1HRWBPEMYzf_E8wvcauuE0IxNV3jjcgIK9e4lyIXl2Aky-5SIFPVqEhuVSha-SLuVJhFDqlY/s400/P1250493.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Calibrating The Bike On The Dyno</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />The dyno run completed base fuelling & spark for a given barometric pressure and manifold air temperature. All other starts and runs from here on out will help to apply appropriate air temp & barometric pressure corrections and dial in the transient fuelling corrections. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br /><b> </b><br />
<b>Trackday</b><br /><br />As planned, the bike was taken on a trackday at Mallory Park after dyno testing to see how it would manage. Unfortunately the chosen day turned out to be cold, wet & snowy but still proved to be a great test of the bike’s rideability with the EFI system. <br /><br />It was also hoped to use the track day as an opportunity to get a lot of data logging done to help dial in the transient fuelling but as luck would have it, the brand new lambda sensor installed died within minutes of the bike being started so no fuelling data was recorded throughout the day.<br /><br />Despite this setback, the bike rode really well on the track and throttle response & power were as good as could have hoped given the lack of any form of transient fuelling corrections.<br /><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLwvbAOmHtqjFOfrDbXN8PwnQ1cj2ZHBdGT_diT44Dexhr3MDoBUUKd5seaQTfGNDnh4zwJgZ42fxSWc1QJEutBrvDrQttCSveTXn2dx8COgZHC2cC8y60QhFJ-l4uINRhaf3hd3RPUok/s1600/_DSC1065.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLwvbAOmHtqjFOfrDbXN8PwnQ1cj2ZHBdGT_diT44Dexhr3MDoBUUKd5seaQTfGNDnh4zwJgZ42fxSWc1QJEutBrvDrQttCSveTXn2dx8COgZHC2cC8y60QhFJ-l4uINRhaf3hd3RPUok/s400/_DSC1065.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trackday</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
motthomashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11930265085871789924noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4168720258672520292.post-31118082415675656352017-02-21T18:39:00.001+00:002017-02-21T18:39:06.326+00:00The Search For Electrical Overhead<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Due to the additional electrical load being placed on the bike from the EFI system, the charging system needed some attention. It was suspected from the very beginning of the project that the original reg/rec may not able to cope with the constant drain on the system from a high pressure fuel pump and twin headlights. This became very apparent as the bike was being used more and more recently.<br />
The battery could not be kept charged when either the dipped beams or main beams were switched on. There was a definite drop in battery voltage depending on whether the lights were switched on or not and it was noticed that the reg/rec was getting quite hot after night-time rides so it was likely that the reg/rec was going to fail sooner rather than later.<br />
<br />
A new Shindengen FH020AA mosfet reg/rec had already been purchased for an upgrade further down the line but given the circumstances, the upgrade was moved to the top of the priority list. The installation of the new reg/rec was relatively straight-forward. The FH020AA is quite a bit bigger than the OEM reg/rec but still fits under the fairing in the same place. Just about. One additional hole had to be drilled in the mounting plate to accommodate the wider hole spacing of the FH020AA and the standard connector was chopped from the loom and replaced with the dual connectors required for the FH020AA.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrpc1S4Qe5tuJaSgQ8m-I-0WrX0RYcaKTOupRg9n6q4ouTd71IibTw5S8C83JSHTgl92SQ-D9oSab21mxRITjb1N6dCC3KxNbSATDwudlgKlNx6SgaqSlPwKUNBhbZ0dYG3PyPwDsLlGw/s1600/20160910_125941.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrpc1S4Qe5tuJaSgQ8m-I-0WrX0RYcaKTOupRg9n6q4ouTd71IibTw5S8C83JSHTgl92SQ-D9oSab21mxRITjb1N6dCC3KxNbSATDwudlgKlNx6SgaqSlPwKUNBhbZ0dYG3PyPwDsLlGw/s400/20160910_125941.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">FH020AA vs OEM mc22 reg/rec</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
An immediate improvement in voltage regulation and stability was observed with the FH020AA fitted and the reg/rec merely ran warm to the touch as opposed to hot. Although, since the reg/rec can only improve regulation efficiency and can not force the stator to provide any extra power, the bike was still a little short of electrical headroom. It was not bad enough to risk running the battery flat during a long night-time ride but rather meant that battery voltage with the lights on at idle tended to hover around 12V as opposed to the 14V which was observed at idle with no lights. When a current clamp was placed on the battery earth strap, it became apparent that with lights on, the predominant flow of current was out of the battery. As such, a way of either a) boosting the generated power or b) reducing the electrical load on the bike had to be found. Of the two, option b) was clearly the preferred route. Given the headlights represented the single largest current draw on the electrical system, they were the chosen target for modernisation.<br />
<br />
After much deliberation, research and changing of mind back & forth, it was decided to install LED bulbs. The options were either HID or LED but eventually the LED won out due to being actually able to package the ballasts in the front of the bike, being more adjustable for beam pattern and having lower overall current draw although they were almost twice the cost of the HIDs for a quality set from a reputable manufacturer.<br />
<br />
Each H4 LED bulb is rated at 20W compared to the 60W/55W rating of the standard halogen units so, in theory, a set of two should have freed up c.6A capacity which would be more than enough to cover the additional load the fuel pump, lambda heater & injectors placed on the system. Before installing the LEDs, a charge current of -7A (draining battery) at idle with dipped beam on and -6A at idle with main beam on was measured. With the LEDs installed, charging current was measured at +3A at idle with both dipped and main beams on, leaving ample headroom on the charging system.<br />
<br />
The physical installation of the bulbs was reasonably straight-forward. The heatsinks on the back of the bulb made it all a bit bulkier than the standard setup but the heat sinks are well hidden given they are black in colour. The two small ballasts found a nice place to sit either side of the clock stay bracket where they do not interfere with anything else. Getting the beam pattern right took the most time but the adjustment in the bulb housings worked a treat. There is also the advantage that the LED headlamps are quite a bit brighter than the halogens which makes night-time riding quite a bit more enjoyable.</div>
motthomashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11930265085871789924noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4168720258672520292.post-89848873296734434232016-09-09T12:45:00.003+01:002016-09-09T12:45:54.496+01:00ECU Modifications<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
There were two further modifications I wanted to make to the
control system before getting the bike back on the road for a decent period of
time and collecting data.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<ol style="text-align: left;">
<li>Bluetooth
connectivity</li>
<li>Barometric
Pressure Sensor</li>
</ol>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Bluetooth Connectivity</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I had been looking at incorporating Bluetooth connectivity
on the Microsquirt for quite a while and had purchased an RS232 to Bluetooth
module for the purpose. I never got around to installing it permanently though
as I needed to add a separate power connection for the module.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
When I was building the new ECU harness recently I added a
switched 12V power & ground connector with the intention of using this
connector to power a Bluetooth module. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
However, getting into the detail, I became less happy with
the RS232 to Bluetooth module option. This option meant I would still need to
use a 2.5mm jack to RS232 cable between the ECU harness & the Bluetooth
module which not only made the setup bulky but also introduced more connectors
than required with the potential for
connection issues. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I researched alternative serial-Bluetooth modules and came
across the HC-05 & HC-06 modules which are commonly used in Arduino
projects and can be easily reprogrammed using an Arduino. I decided upon using
a HC-06 module as I did not have the requirement to switch between master/slave
modes. The physical size of the module was a large part of the attraction. The
plan was to use a linear voltage regulator to drop the switched 12V supply down
to an acceptable level for the HC-06 and enclose the module in a small case
with a flying lead terminating in a 2.5mm jack to communicate with the ECU.
However when this setup was tested, the software would recognise a Bluetooth
device was connected but it could not read the firmware signature. The
signature appeared as though the baud rate was incorrect even though it wasn’t.
After much frustration & further research, it was found that the HC-06
works with straight serial data and cannot deal with RS232 serial as it was
receiving via the 2.5mm jack in the ECU harness.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Then I discovered an article online that described
installing a HC-06 Bluetooth module inside the Microsquirt case. 5V power &
ground connections were taken from the development header on the main board and
Tx & Rx were soldered directly onto the main board prior to the RS232 chip.
This installation had the immediate attraction of being extremely tidy as
everything would be hidden inside the ECU case with no external wiring. I added
a toggle switch to the 5V power connection so that the Bluetooth module could
be switched on & off from outside the ECU, allowing the choice of
connecting to the ECU via Bluetooth or via direct RS232 serial cable. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The internal installation worked great the first time and
has made datalogging and loading calibrations onto the ECU significantly easier
given that every ride can now be datalogged using a smart-phone in the pocket
without requiring a laptop with wired connection to the ECU to be carried
around in a backpack. It will significantly increase the rate of data
collection and usability of the bike.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMF1VvM-hei3tC6tCmAhzWgCI3rxWYeTmEHTD4BgzXXKGW5vqCwZyh0Mw8HeMjUfpu-HudHl0rrfga6Tnp0FVUy4pldvy-Q1iX9wpE9PIvNpc27W7akbaqTr2zp9Rhq1maHOrcja-5ybY/s1600/P8290016.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMF1VvM-hei3tC6tCmAhzWgCI3rxWYeTmEHTD4BgzXXKGW5vqCwZyh0Mw8HeMjUfpu-HudHl0rrfga6Tnp0FVUy4pldvy-Q1iX9wpE9PIvNpc27W7akbaqTr2zp9Rhq1maHOrcja-5ybY/s400/P8290016.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">HC-06 Bluetooth Module</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<b>Barometric Pressure Sensor</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Given the location of the lambda sensor on the TSR exhaust
system, it is impractical to run closed loop lambda correction during daily use
and so the intention was to dial in the fuelling as best possible and run open
loop fuelling. In order to correct fuelling for varying atmospheric pressure
and riding at altitude, the preference was to add a separate barometric
pressure sensor which would allow constant fuelling corrections with
pressure/altitude.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The simplest option was to add a second MAP sensor which
would be dedicated to atmospheric pressure measurement. However, MAP sensors
tend to be able to measure across a larger range of pressures than required so
accuracy would be compromised. I also had not added the external wiring
necessary when I renewed the ECU harness.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I had seen some examples of Microsquirt ECUs modified to
include an internal MAP & Barometric pressure sensor such as the
DIYAutotune MAPDaddy board. This particular solution did not appeal to me
though as it is relatively expensive, includes 2 pressure sensors when only one
was needed and the sensors are 4 Bar sensors which are likely to be quite
inaccurate when trying to measure in such a small range of the sensor’s
capability. This did however open up the idea of using a board mount pressure
sensor located within the ECU case.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I looked at using a Bosch BMP sensor but as the output is
digital I would need additional electronics to convert the signal back to analogue
0-5V so that the ECU could read it. A Honeywell pressure sensor was also an
option as it gave an analogue output and being a through-hole package, it could
easily be mounted on standard stripboard. However the cost was prohibitive
being over half the cost of the dual sensor MAPDaddy board and the physical
size and measurement range was still larger than I would have liked.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In the end I have chosen an Infineon KP235 Barometric
pressure sensor as it is low cost, designed for use in automotive applications,
narrow useable measurement range & small package size. The one disadvantage
was that the surface mount package and small size meant I had to design and
make a PCB to mount it and allow it to be connected to the ECU but this was a
small price to pay for the size and cost of the unit.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A PCB was designed to accept the KP235 sensor and include
smoothing capacitors on the input & output voltages as recommended by the
manufacturer. Surface mount 0805 package capacitors were used to help keep the
size of the board down and the interface with the ECU would be through standard
size header pins and DuPont connectors. This way the board size was kept down
to 25mm x 12mm.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Copper board was painted to mask the copper layer. Then a
negative of the PCB layout was etched in the mask to expose all the unwanted
copper. The exposed copper was then removed using an acid solution before removing
the paint mask and protecting the remaining copper with a liquid tin solution.
The header pin holes were then drilled and the components soldered in place.
For additional protection and isolation from vibration, the completed board was
coated in a layer of silicone rubber.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQcvMdbtl-K4GBA40_0gG9KNMuyZXghtsRzSmjp1MpDtU8-jrh_i7vMDFY-W1lb2xdjJR4mD9Ts8mqD7rBP6SSRNbN_BTXKX7uYXHnJjKSZBTv2hy_7pdIsxGb8xdpsCRmavsW5eFtJZw/s1600/20160824_181732.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQcvMdbtl-K4GBA40_0gG9KNMuyZXghtsRzSmjp1MpDtU8-jrh_i7vMDFY-W1lb2xdjJR4mD9Ts8mqD7rBP6SSRNbN_BTXKX7uYXHnJjKSZBTv2hy_7pdIsxGb8xdpsCRmavsW5eFtJZw/s400/20160824_181732.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Completed Sensor & Board</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA49YhPHxhmSzUhQyChszeZluFW2T6ug5egbk3yUGb4GreA3edM9LZo1vBQ1V9R3Ol2CVbCXC-NSTA4CQfWnuYKpiNbsjz0GD8tEXKUBzjy1wdvDor2JfKaruu57TGJS_vQOTVaGGfT5w/s1600/20160829_071050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA49YhPHxhmSzUhQyChszeZluFW2T6ug5egbk3yUGb4GreA3edM9LZo1vBQ1V9R3Ol2CVbCXC-NSTA4CQfWnuYKpiNbsjz0GD8tEXKUBzjy1wdvDor2JfKaruu57TGJS_vQOTVaGGfT5w/s400/20160829_071050.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Protected Sensor Board</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
5V power & ground were taken from the header pins on the
main board as with the Bluetooth module and the output signal wire was soldered
to the SPAREADC2 pin on the Ampseal connector between the connector and the ECU
board. A 1.5mm hole was also drilled in the ECU case to allow pressure inside
the case to equalise to atmospheric pressure.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUKf85WOVHxw3Mg9DifEnWkIznYeJHnWL9q3UJCY6Bmhio_FwnrhousL0kEB-GycUvHh91ezlKopzhyO3L__6By7oGkF6W4onaSJYzkrbOtpakokbVlWF6BNKIGlODKe07MZcEKicAgdU/s1600/P8290012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUKf85WOVHxw3Mg9DifEnWkIznYeJHnWL9q3UJCY6Bmhio_FwnrhousL0kEB-GycUvHh91ezlKopzhyO3L__6By7oGkF6W4onaSJYzkrbOtpakokbVlWF6BNKIGlODKe07MZcEKicAgdU/s400/P8290012.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sensor Installed In The ECU</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Both the Bluetooth module and barometric pressure sensor are
held in place using hot glue. The Bluetooth module is located underneath the
topside of the Ampseal connector and the barometric pressure is located
underneath the lower side of the Ampseal connector. The Bluetooth switch is
located on the RHS of the ECU and is easily reachable when it is installed on
the bike.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Following these two upgrades to the ECU, the physical
install is considered as good as complete. The bike is now back together again
and on the road where the goal over the next few months is to collect as much
data as possible and continue to refine the calibration.<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
</div>
motthomashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11930265085871789924noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4168720258672520292.post-39544768364103419882016-08-19T13:20:00.005+01:002016-08-19T13:42:02.137+01:00Idle Control Valve & More Wiring<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<b>Idle Control Valve</b><br />
<br />
One of the things that was bugging me about the whole install was the fact that because I had converted the carburetors to throttle bodies and disabled the choke, cold starting was still a bit of an issue. There was a fine line between setting the throttle stop such that the engine would run when cold and still not idle massively high. I had got it to a point where it would idle at c.2,000 rpm when hot but when cold it would struggle to life & I couldn’t touch the throttle until a reasonable amount of heat had built up in the engine. It was OK for the short term but it wasn’t good enough for a road engine so I started looking into getting some form of idle control implemented.<br />
<br />
As most idle control valves are based on a stepper motor driving open the throttles when cold I began to look at these. I contemplated mounting a stepper motor to the throttle bodies to drive the throttle stop screw in and out so that I could vary the closed position depending on coolant temperature. The issues with this were the placement of the stepper motor & also the stepper motor drive. The Microsquirt does not have a stepper motor output so I would need an external unit to convert the PWM output of the Microsquirt into something that could be fed into a stepper motor. Space constraints won out in the end. The thermostat housing is located pretty much exactly there the motor would need to be mounted and I had already moved the thermostat housing as much as possible just to get the fuel rail to fit.<br />
<br />
I also considered a mechanical system with a thermostat that would retract a plunger as coolant temp rose and close the throttle more but the same space constraints also killed that idea.<br />
<br />
I then thought that I could bleed air past the butterflies by using the carb sync nipples that I was already using to measure MAP from. Having air leaking in here results in rough running on a carbureted system but with the FI system I would have the ability to add fuel to compensate and make use of the additional air being drawn in. A solenoid valve could be driven by PWM directly from the Microsquirt to regulate the flow of air past the butterflies and the MAP sensor could be T’d in between the solenoid & the split to all the ports so that MAP could still be sampled in the same way as before.<br />
<br />
After a little research I purchased a Bosch canister purge valve used in many cars and a selection of silicone hose & T pieces to plumb in the system. The diagram below shows a schematic of the plumbing I ended up with.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbxX4esiWHioyK3z4XHvx0vlM6doryvZHTR2FtvpJeBYBzcl8mdlJYY3AJ9IUQoT1D4rNvx1rYKkwSKLpXdUrIpiuwyTy1c92rfUCghI7oFYB964kMBAXfHW2RL3ZcPFX8ZbTb_4LSsFM/s1600/Idle+Valve+Plumbing.PNG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="307" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbxX4esiWHioyK3z4XHvx0vlM6doryvZHTR2FtvpJeBYBzcl8mdlJYY3AJ9IUQoT1D4rNvx1rYKkwSKLpXdUrIpiuwyTy1c92rfUCghI7oFYB964kMBAXfHW2RL3ZcPFX8ZbTb_4LSsFM/s400/Idle+Valve+Plumbing.PNG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
The idle control valve so far has only been tested for a very short time on the bike but so far it is looking very promising. When the engine is warm, the difference in engine speed between valve closed & valve open is 1,000 rpm and I can also use the valve to control to a target idle speed in closed loop mode. It certainly needs more running to dial in the settings but it is a big step in the right direction.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Wiring Harness Issue 02</b><br />
<br />
Given the addition of an idle air valve, I needed to run the signal wire from the ECU to the injector harness to drive the valve so that required a small change to the ECU harness. Small changes spiral quickly with me though and this was no exception.<br />
<br />
Even though I had spent some time this time last year tidying up the wiring harness, I had become pretty unhappy with it as time went on. In diagnosing a faulty main relay some months back I became sceptical about the quality of connections I had made in the harness. Since most of these connections were made at the very beginning of the project when I had little experience and were added on a “when needed” and “where is accessible” basis, I did not have a clear idea about how reliable they were and where the connections were physically located within the harness. The harness was also far bulkier than I cared for and was generally not up to my current standards.<br />
<br />
At the time I started to doubt the harness I had decided that I would build a completely new main bike harness incorporating the ECU harness and dash and a few other upgrades that would make the bike a bit more modern so I thought the old ECU harness would do the job until I got the main harness built.<br />
<br />
However, having to run a single wire along the harness presented the perfect opportunity to tear it all apart and start again to make the ECU harness tidier and more reliable until the upgraded bike harness would be ready to drop in. The main aims for the new ECU harness were:<br />
<br />
<ol style="text-align: left;">
<li>Remove all unused wires from the harness. Previously I had just chopped the unused wires back but they still ran within the harness up until the front of the pillion seat.</li>
<li>Replace any wires within the harness which were deemed overkill for the level of current they are expected to carry.</li>
<li>Replace all previously spliced wires with new more reliable spliced connections.</li>
<li>Tidy up the power connections around the fuse box & add proper relay connectors to make removing and replacing components more foolproof & straightforward</li>
<li>Tidy up how the external coil driver box interfaced with the harness</li>
<li>Mainly use the process to create a complete & up to date harness drawing and pinout chart including connector specs, wire routing, wire sizes, splices & splice locations and harness lengths. All this would take more time now but would really help with any fault diagnosis and harness alterations in the future. It would also get me one step closer to a full set of documentation to capture all the alterations & modifications I have made to the bike throughout this project.</li>
</ol>
<br />
While drawing up the new ECU harness I decided to change the way injector power was being delivered to enable me to fit in the idle valve wiring in the same connector that was already in the harness. Previously, each injector bank (2off) had its own fused power supply so I merged these two supplies into one which also provided power to the idle valve and allowed me to use a 4-way connector between the ECU & Injector harness. That change did however force a rebuild of the injector harness even though I was reasonably happy with that. At the same time it was a good excuse to make a few nice changes and make it altogether more robust.<br />
<br />
First was to remove all the wires from the ECU Ampseal connector that were not being used. Also any signal wires which had been cut and spliced previously were removed and replaced with fresh wire. The harness was then laid out and laced together with the branches coming off the main trunk at the correct locations. Then connectors were added and the whole lot wrapped. Installed on the bike it is now far easier to install & remove the harness and it looks much tidier also.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy9hUOYQlkwQ3q-W_Rf7EtIgIyfERQjGv1U3z5VSZqA8NRuc2yQ7vKTA-vFf-LaIZtoH9-p6Il1gpE815qxdme8q0JIVU-4YjrtcZ4DGBbTjJJ3C5TbAQt_MvFb6Gd_68xgVvQuCo54HE/s1600/20160707_222325.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy9hUOYQlkwQ3q-W_Rf7EtIgIyfERQjGv1U3z5VSZqA8NRuc2yQ7vKTA-vFf-LaIZtoH9-p6Il1gpE815qxdme8q0JIVU-4YjrtcZ4DGBbTjJJ3C5TbAQt_MvFb6Gd_68xgVvQuCo54HE/s400/20160707_222325.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Laced ECU Harness</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pAXg66rxRJE/V7YcAn8TI7I/AAAAAAAAO7g/Fl0b9xqljHQSd0PCYJ41vMVcPVv-PY5LwCPcB/s1600/P8180012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pAXg66rxRJE/V7YcAn8TI7I/AAAAAAAAO7g/Fl0b9xqljHQSd0PCYJ41vMVcPVv-PY5LwCPcB/s400/P8180012.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Installed ECU Harness</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
While that all looked good, I felt that wrapping the harness tended to twist the bundle a little when wrapping and the wrap was also a little untidy around the areas where the branches broke away from the main bundle so for the Injector harness I took a slightly different approach. I sleeved the wire bundles with DR-25 and then covered the joints with adhesive lined heatshrink to provide some rigidity. I also redesigned the harness so that the main bundle would be tied to the throttle bodies just below the airbox rather than onto the fuel rail where it was previously.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPvtkwY6NM1Q_djVfrwaoP1caC-KVo4sxy8GhH76epU7vz6dnazNnH2CgXY28btABmQ3LLsJXSqkrBWFmOSr8n9oRXtbimAMKd5_z-eXzTeHfX6PspHFcnFebK1NlnpHkzh3DSLkZxJa4/s1600/20160718_215017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPvtkwY6NM1Q_djVfrwaoP1caC-KVo4sxy8GhH76epU7vz6dnazNnH2CgXY28btABmQ3LLsJXSqkrBWFmOSr8n9oRXtbimAMKd5_z-eXzTeHfX6PspHFcnFebK1NlnpHkzh3DSLkZxJa4/s400/20160718_215017.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Completed Injector Harness</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjslbW0-cD2mZhZDY9H4QHEfG7R8LGRUIa09hLBQkRWMI2V8BJgG_4diJpcj4vQ1Dr0EvpcUNPHIrXsR9rv99HmbdlYx8UaQc-cWBx-hKw3PsVHlmKcsbTXceBNU9D3V7ygHB9a4hmOqrY/s1600/20160718_220345.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjslbW0-cD2mZhZDY9H4QHEfG7R8LGRUIa09hLBQkRWMI2V8BJgG_4diJpcj4vQ1Dr0EvpcUNPHIrXsR9rv99HmbdlYx8UaQc-cWBx-hKw3PsVHlmKcsbTXceBNU9D3V7ygHB9a4hmOqrY/s400/20160718_220345.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Installed Injector Harness</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHsYomaTpXYrag_Gh9V5spjLUrbmSCC6UX6xsrTvv8fldNbJnaws0lOVrxTB-c1lHRV77TfC_TnJWIXknGSWOq5wEG4x9dNzJ2etv8PKoVZg23VuergJYU6kDbstxULrfHA5FI_PZOOzk/s1600/20160723_180714.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHsYomaTpXYrag_Gh9V5spjLUrbmSCC6UX6xsrTvv8fldNbJnaws0lOVrxTB-c1lHRV77TfC_TnJWIXknGSWOq5wEG4x9dNzJ2etv8PKoVZg23VuergJYU6kDbstxULrfHA5FI_PZOOzk/s400/20160723_180714.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Installed Idle Valve</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
motthomashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11930265085871789924noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4168720258672520292.post-50873236295521227942016-08-18T13:11:00.000+01:002016-08-18T13:11:09.728+01:00Back To Basics<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I realise it is close to a year since I updated this but better late than never. Not much has happened in the way of real engine calibration since the last update but still some reasonable progress in terms of fine tuning settings. The bike got MOT’d right after the last blog entry and had a few outings afterwards but hasn’t really moved since Christmas.<br />
<br />
I wanted to check a few things that were bothering me about the Microsquirt control and so ended up carrying out quite a lot of bench testing on the ignition side of things over several months.<br />
<br />
I actually don’t remember where it all started but at some point during the last year I started to question the accuracy of ignition timing provided by the Microsquirt ECU. I carried out some tests using a crude trigger wheel simulator on the bench & then on a running engine which confirmed my suspicions; ignition timing appeared to drift as much as 5 degrees at 18,000rpm. On top of this I noticed two further uncertainties while testing.<br />
<br />
<ol style="text-align: left;">
<li>Battery voltage as read by the ECU did not track actual battery voltage. There appeared to be some hysteresis in the measurement as the ECU recorded a different offset depending on whether the battery voltage was rising or falling. This was obviously an issue as it would result in incorrect coil dwell times & injector dead times.</li>
<li>During ignition coil testing using the ECU’s output test mode, coil dwell times measured did not match what was demanded by the ECU even with battery voltage compensation disabled.</li>
</ol>
<br />
When I first noticed the timing accuracy issue I figured I could simply get a new, higher resolution trigger wheel made to replace the standard 12-3 wheel. However I hadn’t reckoned with the fact that the Microsquirt doesn’t have the processing power to cope with a higher resolution wheel at the kind of engine speeds seen on the CBR250. The Megasquirt developers have stated that even with the low resolution wheel on the CBR250, 18,000rpm is pushing the boundaries of the Microsquirt hardware capability and that an MS3Pro ECU would do a far better job at controlling the engine at these speeds. Coming out of this, I will most likely be upgrading to an MS3Pro ECU sometime in the future but given the expense and the fact the wiring harness would need to be redesigned to work with the new ECU I tried to find a way to make the Microsquirt work acceptably until I was ready for the upgrade and so I continued with reasonably extensive bench testing in order to measure and understand how the ECU controlled the ignition side of things.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Ignition Timing Accuracy</b><br />
Firstly I wanted to spend some more time bench testing the ignition control both to understand the issues better and to be able to present the issue properly to the Megasquirt developers which would help find out if the MS3Pro would actually fix the issues. That meant making sure that all other variables were as accurate as I could make them. The most important of these was the trigger wheel offset relative to TDC. I had determined this value early in the project using a timing light so it was potentially not as accurate as it could be.<br />
<br />
To determine this properly with the oscilloscope, I needed to compare it directly with the output of the standard MC22 ECU at a known engine speed and spark advance. I wanted to have a way of accurately simulating the crank trigger signal as would be seen by the ECU in a running engine. There are lots of ways available to simulate hall effect trigger signals but I specifically wanted to simulate the VR type of signal that creates a zero crossing. After some research & trial & error I settled on using an Arduino board to create the signals using a modified version of the Ardustim code.<br />
<br />
The Ardustim code normally generates a hall type signal by asking a single pin to go high at specific times. With some modification to the Ardustim code I ended up creating a VR type signal by switching two separate pins & merging them into a single channel. The voltage output from the merged channel would depend on the combined state of the two Arduino pins.<br />
<br />
Both pins high = 5V; Both pins low = 0V; 1 pin high + 1 pin low = 2.5V.<br />
<br />
The output is fed through a transformer to create the needed zero voltage crossing. The simulated VR signal could then be used to determine the 1st tooth angle offset to TDC from the standard MC22 ECU.<br />
<br />
As I had a CBR250RR(R) ECU, the benchmark from the manual is spark demand at 20°BTDC at 1,500rpm. Measuring the time delay on the oscilloscope between the 1st tooth trigger & coil firing signal and converting to degrees at 1,500rpm gave me a 1st tooth angle of 70.5°BTDC. 0.5° closer than I had measured with the timing light.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBWDYUsNvoBwX0NMmOSaytnF6oRGlXKEZ3VKFBid6QvFIAGOewcYjkZluQKB34VNXCLGA4sEQOfSu9qNw13az5uWfBitVwYbJh0-nN80Sw3DHm6xp9RQ25pmDRYgbZy_L2h6T9LRG-peY/s1600/1st+Tooth+Angle+Oscilloscope.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBWDYUsNvoBwX0NMmOSaytnF6oRGlXKEZ3VKFBid6QvFIAGOewcYjkZluQKB34VNXCLGA4sEQOfSu9qNw13az5uWfBitVwYbJh0-nN80Sw3DHm6xp9RQ25pmDRYgbZy_L2h6T9LRG-peY/s400/1st+Tooth+Angle+Oscilloscope.PNG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1st Tooth Offset Determination. Note The Simulated VR Signal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
With the foundation settings correct in the Microsquirt I then proceeded to map the ignition angle error across the engine speed range to build up some data and understand what the exact nature of the error was. It was only when I actually wrote the error values down that I discovered that the errors were consistent in terms of time throughout the engine speed range. This led me to wonder if this was something that could simply be corrected for in the calibration by adjusting the spark hardware latency offset setting. I had not used this previously as I had understood that it was to be used to correct for any delays which might exist within external hardware and since the errors I had been seeing were from within the Microsquirt itself, I ignored this feature.<br />
<br />
I made some small adjustments to the latency offset and rechecked ignition timing across the speed range each time until I was happy that the measured ignition timing was consistent with what was being demanded.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Voltage Reading</b><br />
It was actually quite straightforward to fix the battery voltage reading error within the calibration. I used a digital benchtop power supply to vary the voltage supply to the ECU & noted the voltage readings within the ECU. I quickly found that the different voltage readings depending on if the voltage was increasing or decreasing was being caused by the smoothing function which I had set quite high initially. Once the smoothing was removed, the ECU voltage readings tracked consistently all the time but were offset slightly from the supplied voltage.<br />
I used the measured error to determine new values for voltage at max & min ADC to change the voltage reading calibration which brought the voltage readings in line with the supplied voltage.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Coil Dwell Time</b><br />
While testing and characterising the ignition coils using the controller’s output test mode to drive the coils, I found that the measured coil dwell tended to be longer than what was being demanded from the ECU by a factor of c.1.14. This did became a little worry at the time but I have since noticed that the error appears only when controlling the coils in the output test mode. When the engine is running (or simulated) the measured dwell time matches what is being demanded by the controller and so this became a non-issue.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Ignition Coil Characterisation</b><br />
A major unknown in the ignition system was the dwell time required for the ignition coils.<br />
<br />
First, the standard MC22 RR(R) ECU was mapped in order to determine what dwell times it was requesting at different engine speeds and then compared against how the Microsquirt code handles dwell.<br />
Looking at the dwell times that were being requested by the standard ECU and how they changed as engine speed increases gave the impression that the coils may be performance limited at high speed as the dwell time at 17,000rpm is significantly shorter than at 5,000rpm for example and if the dwell being provided at lower engine speeds is necessary for good coil performance then it would mean that the coil is not getting fully charged at higher engine speeds and ignition performance may be compromised.<br />
<br />
This observation prompted an investigation into trying to fit some higher performing pencil coils from a more modern machine to try and get consistent ignition performance throughout the speed range. The biggest issue was and still is finding coils which will physically fit in the MC22 plug bores.<br />
<br />
All TCI coils found are too high and protrude quite a lot above the cam cover and foul the radiator fan.<br />
<br />
CDI coils such as installed in ’97-‘99 Suzuki GSXR600/750s & 2009 Yamaha YZF250 seem to be the smallest coils physically and could be made work but even these are c.10mm longer than ideal for the MC22. The issue with the CDI coils then is that while they can be made work with a TCI ignition system, the charging current is far higher and the dwell times are far shorter than a normal TCI coil and the ECU and coil drivers would need to be capable of controlling them very accurately.<br />
The charging current can be dealt with using an appropriate ignition IGBT specced for the high current & fly-back voltage. I did purchase a number of appropriate transistors which were capable of driving the CDI coils successfully during bench testing.<br />
<br />
However it was found during testing that the Microsquirt firmware did not have the dwell demand resolution needed to accurately control the GSXR CDI coils. The Megasquirt firmware can only control dwell to the nearest 0.1ms but the GSXR coil nominal dwell is c.0.3ms so accurate control of the dwell is impossible with the Microsquirt controller. Due to this control limitation, the coil upgrade idea has been parked for the foreseeable future.<br />
<br />
Given no alternative ignition coil solution was on the horizon, the standard MC22 wasted spark coils were tested to characterise them and ensure they were being driven properly by the ECU. The coils are nothing special for the MC22 as one might expect for an engine that was being asked to rev higher than most other engines at the time. They are TEC MP08 coils which seem to have been the standard Honda wasted spark coil of choice during the 1990s.<br />
<br />
A current clamp was connected to the oscilloscope to observe how the charging current increased with dwell time & determine the optimum dwell time for a range of battery voltages to provide consistent performance. Observing the way that current draw increased with time it was decided to limit the charging current to 2.75A. The standard ECU does not correct for battery voltage and dwells the coils for 6ms at idle and up to 4,000rpm. As can be seen in the current trace below, this level of dwell overcharges the coil and dwell times could be significantly reduced without too much of an effect on ignition performance. Reducing dwell times would also ensure the coils are performing consistently across as wide an engine speed range as possible. At 12V, the dwell time to 2.75A is 2.5ms and even at 10V there is no sense in dwelling the coils for more than 4ms although it does not reach 2.75A.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhybwDc_74tB32dbZbUtf7Ss3KsmbQsYJjPf45pO8UhEUdYUqfnMsIgONls8ampOtKtK0lrI2a4bG8j7VRUt1YF06YU2kFlYWKYpHohGTH4M0IPi-vHOMH8MgM2kodWwJJZ122Hrf7gaBw/s1600/5.5ms+demand.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhybwDc_74tB32dbZbUtf7Ss3KsmbQsYJjPf45pO8UhEUdYUqfnMsIgONls8ampOtKtK0lrI2a4bG8j7VRUt1YF06YU2kFlYWKYpHohGTH4M0IPi-vHOMH8MgM2kodWwJJZ122Hrf7gaBw/s400/5.5ms+demand.PNG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">TEC MP08 Primary Current at 12V Supply, 6ms dwell</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This investigation showed that as long as battery voltage is kept above 12V there would be no reduction in ignition performance across the full engine speed range. Another benefit is that by keeping the dwell as low as possible at lower engine speeds, this would reduce the load on the charging system compared to the standard settings. Also the old adage, “leave well enough alone” holds true as there is no point in chasing the COP coils option when there is nothing suitable on the market at the moment for reasonable money. For a bigger engine it would be worth it purely to free up some space and provide the option for sequential ignition at a later date.<br />
<br />
<br />
While getting all this information took a lot of time and investment in new equipment, it is worth it to ensure that the basics of the system are working correctly otherwise it would make future calibration more difficult.</div>
motthomashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11930265085871789924noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4168720258672520292.post-14519528323218251362015-11-10T23:16:00.002+00:002015-11-10T23:16:48.413+00:00Re-Calibration<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
First off, the new fuel fittings have been installed and are a success. The install looks quite tidy now and I have adequate clearance between the frame and the banjo bolt. The 90degree fitting also directs the hose in the right way so that the quick release fitting is lined up with the pump spout. Installing and removing the fuel tank is now very straightforward. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdYxbIgTiBYsM_JcEq7oshG8KrTKzs-rArnkRPto4gzRXhJlZ9ltOGnJ6G_3K5NVa0YoODkPcI4SWrKFh6haiRyUsMmrJly3s9MBNoz8asTuR8-1dxoAOmWiO2P4StVVfKq2Q_8v66cUE/s1600/20151018_154201.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdYxbIgTiBYsM_JcEq7oshG8KrTKzs-rArnkRPto4gzRXhJlZ9ltOGnJ6G_3K5NVa0YoODkPcI4SWrKFh6haiRyUsMmrJly3s9MBNoz8asTuR8-1dxoAOmWiO2P4StVVfKq2Q_8v66cUE/s400/20151018_154201.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fuel Hose</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As well as re-testing the injectors, I also took the opportunity to properly calibrate the Suzuki MAP sensor using a Druck calibrator I had available to use. This corrected any errors in the calibration at the start of the project which was done using a mechanics analogue vacuum gauge. The MAP sensor now tracks barometric pressure to +/-1mBar.<br />
<br />
<br />
Due to the change in injector characterisation within the ECU software, I needed to revisit the calibration which had been carried out during road tests at the end of 2014. The estimated dead time previously had been too large which then meant that I ran into issues running the engine using the same fuel table & warmup settings as previously determined.<br />
<br />
I had originally planned to go the route of timed semi-sequential injection as that has the potential to give more repeatable results and better fuelling control at idle and part throttle, low speed than untimed batch fire injection. This is how the ECU was programmed up until a few weeks ago and I had managed to get a relatively good idle and had a decent fuel table. However, as the previous calibration was based on incorrect injector dead-time, the fuel table values were skewed.<br />
<br />
When I started the bike again a few weeks ago with corrected injector characteristics & a good MAP sensor calibration, engine idle was erratic and not very well controlled. Lambda readings were as high as 1.35 despite using the same fuel table as before and the idle bins needed a lot more fuel added in order to get the engine to idle at a sensible lambda. Even then readings were swinging constantly between 0.9-1.1. The issue was that the correct dead-time was quite a bit lower than the estimated value used previously and so that meant injector pulsewidths were now low enough to demand pulsewidths at the lower end of the non-linear flow region such that little to no fuel was actually being injected each time and leading to high lambda idle and lean misfire. This was compounded by the fact that the semi-sequential control required each injector to fire twice per cycle, halving the demanded pulsewidth for a given quantity of fuel.<br />
<br />
Following this development I abandoned semi-sequential injection in favour of batch fire. While it is a more crude method of fuel delivery and does not usually yield as fine control as lower loads & speeds, the tradeoff in favour of longer, more predictable pulsewidths as idle and low load are worth it for my application<br />
<br />
In the past two weeks I believe I have managed a much smoother, controlled idle than I had with the earlier 2014 calibration. So far I have not had any issues with repeatability on the batch fire sequencing and off-idle throttle response is far better than ever before.<br />
<br />
I need to finish some other non-EFI conversion related work on the bike before I will be able to get the bike on the road and continue calibration work. </div>
motthomashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11930265085871789924noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4168720258672520292.post-67183953640457982172015-08-27T23:57:00.001+01:002015-08-27T23:57:17.387+01:00Permanentisation!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The project came to a bit of a halt over the winter and spring due to the unexpected rebuild of another bike. Now though it is slowly coming back into line.<br />
<br />
While I have not started the bike in months and progress would appear to be slow from looking at the semi-naked bike in the garage, some good and very important steps have been taken towards making sure the EFI system is fully integrated into the bike.<br />
<br />
Firstly is wiring. During the early calibration and testing stages, I still had not fully finalised the wiring loom. While the EFI side of the loom is good and did not need to be touched, the auxiliary loom which forms part of the Koso dash installation had not been finalised. I pulled out the dash loom again and split it into two definitive sections which allows the dash to sit much better when the nose fairing is installed. One section feeds into the original loom via one of the original clock connector and the other which routes down the RHS of the bike taking the constant power source & fuel level signal to the dash. CLT & speed sensor wiring was also plugged into this side of the loom and I integrated the Eclipze headlight upgrade wiring into the auxiliary loom also.<br />
That bit of tidying has fixed some items which I was not 100% happy with.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5IakAgH00XKe8o-dwmCZ45ADNUdEbss5cPef_0GTYgLLchSee2g9NUQsQP8MitdFPyiifuXob9rEkcvWV-Nvu4F6XVGOZ2tPGuOU1WT5uUY7Uiu5-Pa-utv98YHgXWDUfUTujkPuYx-8/s1600/20150827_234957.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5IakAgH00XKe8o-dwmCZ45ADNUdEbss5cPef_0GTYgLLchSee2g9NUQsQP8MitdFPyiifuXob9rEkcvWV-Nvu4F6XVGOZ2tPGuOU1WT5uUY7Uiu5-Pa-utv98YHgXWDUfUTujkPuYx-8/s400/20150827_234957.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Revised Dash Harness Routing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
The second and most important thing was to permanently turn the carburetors into throttle bodies. When I first fitted the throttle bodies I was unsure if removing the slides completely would cause issues with response & rideability at low throttle openings given that the throttle bores are so large in comparison to the inlet ports. In order to verify this, the slides were simply held in their fully open position using silicone sealant to test the rideability. During testing, no adverse characteristics were noted so the original plan to bond the slides in place permanently was carried out.<br />
<br />
The slides were each filled with reinforced epoxy resin and bonded in the fully closed position with the same epoxy. The main slide area was then cut out using a dremel tool and cut back to meet the throttle bore wall. A brake cylinder hone was then used to grind any imperfections down and ensure bore roundness was maintained. After initial honing, epoxy resin was reapplied on any low spots and the honing procedure repeated. Once a good finish was achieved with the hone, the bores were finished by working up to 800grit emery paper. Right now, the gas path is smooth all the way through the throttle body with none of the imperfections of the carburetor left to disturb the air.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpAoOGim55xpSp40P4H2NaY1aA2S3JBrPTvvOd6qEtNJ5TE-dZRbz5uhYXj_OOkhuCCFYKx0n7iEH8qoYgKOVJQrK8hEtdp_mg9jncdu5A6fkKZgWGfoAKGUBv88SjltzaIrox79YON3Q/s1600/20150714_222221.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpAoOGim55xpSp40P4H2NaY1aA2S3JBrPTvvOd6qEtNJ5TE-dZRbz5uhYXj_OOkhuCCFYKx0n7iEH8qoYgKOVJQrK8hEtdp_mg9jncdu5A6fkKZgWGfoAKGUBv88SjltzaIrox79YON3Q/s400/20150714_222221.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Epoxy Infill After Roughing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhldBwafvhNi4xY3Z4x1bdr-L1GDJXPvS-B1seYLFauSfBRS5N5868AsaPsHqgeLTylGKAfuE8jKzx3t03atdmMgGaSeRkr6FjxNIOVCRUKm-7IYf_rh-E4rIPIJZ_gxErAZzsAK4JFvq8/s1600/P7250465.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhldBwafvhNi4xY3Z4x1bdr-L1GDJXPvS-B1seYLFauSfBRS5N5868AsaPsHqgeLTylGKAfuE8jKzx3t03atdmMgGaSeRkr6FjxNIOVCRUKm-7IYf_rh-E4rIPIJZ_gxErAZzsAK4JFvq8/s400/P7250465.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished Throttle Bore</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
I was not 100% happy with the injector testing which I had carried out before. Only one injector had been tested, the flow rate was a little approximate and the dead time calculations had been inconclusive so that my current calibration still contained the default figures. Getting the injector dead times right is crucial to a good idle, especially as the injectors are still a little on the large side for the mc22 so I opted to retest all four injectors using better equipment.<br />
<br />
Short lengths of flexible tubing were slipped on over the end of the injectors to direct the flow and also to minimise vapour spray. The injector being tested was fired into a plastic container which was placed on a scales. Weighing the fuel injected was far more accurate than measuring it from a graduated cylinder as larger quantities of fuel could be used for the test and thereby minimise the effects of any errors in readings.<br />
<br />
A variable bench power supply was used to power the ECU & injectors which allowed dead time tests to be conducted at 3 different voltage points and measure dead time variation with voltage. The fuel pump was still driven by the battery as the power supply did not have the current rating to support the fuel pump power demand.<br />
Each injector was tested at 100% duty cycle for several periods of 1-2mins to get an average flow rate. Dead time tests were conducted using 10 different pulsewidths at 3 different voltage settings, with each data point test timed to last 2mins. This resulted in long test times although confidence in the results is very high.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixQ1lI7PWRDEuFEyuGKqNiZ0h6ttgo3L5JwdYBmep-Y_dJ8BVuc9OjXc3bvjfzm-bF2TXM2KrZJ2HXT9pQcHfJmFRx5s3_-7AWKhpWH6_1aVbCM8tyh1AHy0bof8FFNUajtGnMAEts_Cg/s1600/20150808_235114.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixQ1lI7PWRDEuFEyuGKqNiZ0h6ttgo3L5JwdYBmep-Y_dJ8BVuc9OjXc3bvjfzm-bF2TXM2KrZJ2HXT9pQcHfJmFRx5s3_-7AWKhpWH6_1aVbCM8tyh1AHy0bof8FFNUajtGnMAEts_Cg/s400/20150808_235114.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Measuring Injector Discharge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIe0NrtXmzy-OpN9sVIZ-Nr6kG-GJtfgy1bGERg1UGZ6mxIicCgWi-mBac3Vp9dDea7MR_QbObKKJo4Fgk797etlB2joCQNaypOte5-_A6Dn3-Kl2tcSvHOJEhSFACFzKubPcGYu79DfA/s1600/20150808_235134.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIe0NrtXmzy-OpN9sVIZ-Nr6kG-GJtfgy1bGERg1UGZ6mxIicCgWi-mBac3Vp9dDea7MR_QbObKKJo4Fgk797etlB2joCQNaypOte5-_A6Dn3-Kl2tcSvHOJEhSFACFzKubPcGYu79DfA/s400/20150808_235134.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Test Bench</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI80sMYCRlp3XdeVGR6iwcEMZC2UrnQMiQFic9qExJvRiu2UMSw8PMT8EBNyF4ZeJBwqRNoZ0n-BDZwRATlfCRp_rhr2sgGtPO2_GOh0WZFA4W_XZTYqmPJiGZM1GIx7TtczTGR7yw2Sw/s1600/20150809_134332.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI80sMYCRlp3XdeVGR6iwcEMZC2UrnQMiQFic9qExJvRiu2UMSw8PMT8EBNyF4ZeJBwqRNoZ0n-BDZwRATlfCRp_rhr2sgGtPO2_GOh0WZFA4W_XZTYqmPJiGZM1GIx7TtczTGR7yw2Sw/s400/20150809_134332.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Test Results</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
The fuel line fittings are also being upgraded. The initial testing was carried out with a standard steel banjo fitting feeding into the end of the fuel rail. A fibre reinforced fuel line had to be used due to space restrictions not allowing an aeroquip hose to bend around to meet the fuel pump. Space was also so limited that the banjo bolt fouled on the frame with the throttle bodies fitted. It was good enough for early testing but certainly not good enough to stay that way.<br />
<br />
One solution was to cut 2-3mm from the end of the fuel rail and to shorten it. However, an alternative banjo fitting had to be found anyway to route the fuel pipe to the pump so modification of the fuel rail was held off until suitable fittings could be found.<br />
<br />
Luckily enough, the good people at ATEC Autotechnic make a selection of quality motorsport grade fittings and will supply CAD models of everything on request. That allowed the packaging to be determined before buying and it was found that by using these quality fittings, the banjo stack height could be reduced by over 3mm meaning that no fuel rail modification was needed.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglXM4m7bbhVgFbK3gfOpNI5WnOOeTCfQwYv1f9kdVMD3spRMz5nY-BsqB7CGNiDvCWx5KJ_Fh1vy4lglnBFazUSFIzdHk9MrlEg_wltTMM6dVcmdx9ORawp1NP3AQDCEvrAvduAwu4dhI/s1600/20150716_072819.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglXM4m7bbhVgFbK3gfOpNI5WnOOeTCfQwYv1f9kdVMD3spRMz5nY-BsqB7CGNiDvCWx5KJ_Fh1vy4lglnBFazUSFIzdHk9MrlEg_wltTMM6dVcmdx9ORawp1NP3AQDCEvrAvduAwu4dhI/s400/20150716_072819.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New Fuel Fittings</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u9v9PEEcTio/Vd9_HY4ozcI/AAAAAAAAL3Q/Bv-nEp4R3EA/s1600/20150716_072703.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u9v9PEEcTio/Vd9_HY4ozcI/AAAAAAAAL3Q/Bv-nEp4R3EA/s400/20150716_072703.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old vs. New</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
motthomashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11930265085871789924noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4168720258672520292.post-39505648038989708502014-10-14T12:41:00.000+01:002014-10-14T12:41:19.723+01:00On the Road<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The bike is now fully put back together again at last! i.e. all fairings, lights, mirrors, etc. This means I am no longer restricted to testing during daylight hours. A nice addition to have coming into dark winter evenings. This is the first time it has resembled a finished bike since the
project started.<br />
<br />
Over the last few weeks I have managed to take it out for a few long (2 hours plus) spins while logging and letting the tuning software refine the VE table. I have to say, I am very impressed so far with the injection system and how well it can cope with the wide rev range. Sure there are rough edges and areas which need further
development but really I am delighted with the performance of the
system. Above 8,000rpm the ride is very smooth and it honestly feels like it was made to be injected. 3,000 to 8,000 was very rough to begin with but over the last few rides it has smoothed out significantly. That area still needs more work but it is rideable. I suspect a lot of the issues at low revs may be caused by the fact I have
acceleration enrichment settings disabled and a seemingly small change
in throttle in that range results in a much larger change in relative
airflow than the same change higher up the rev range. <br />
<br />I also fixed the issue with the Koso dropping revs at high engine
speeds. It was simply a matter of changing a setting in the ECU to
output the tach signal at half engine speed and then change the settings
in the Koso to convert the half speed signal back to real engine speed.
It seems the Koso has issues dealing with 2 ignition events per cycle
at high engine speeds. Having a reliable speed readout also gave me the
confidence to bring the engine all the way up through the revs. It has
left me with no doubt whatsoever that the microsquirt can handle engine
control at CBR250RR speeds.
<br />
<br />
There is a lot left regarding tuning the fuel table and then the ignition timing table but it now feels more
like a bike and less like a project so that is a big positive.<br />
<br />The next big job on the bike is a new paint scheme. The new front
fender and fuel tank don't match the rest of the bodywork.<br />
<br />
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motthomashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11930265085871789924noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4168720258672520292.post-59685145168096432482014-09-22T23:35:00.001+01:002014-09-22T23:35:15.834+01:00Back at it again<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
So after a few months of not being able to work on the bike at all I am back at it again.<br />
<br />
I haven't done any more physical work on the bike since, just tuning and refining the control side of the injection.<br />
<br />
Below is a quick video of one of some of the first rides running with injection.<br />
<br />
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<br />
<br />
I was relatively sure I had populated the fuel table to be safely rich
to begin with but I did a slow run up through the revs at first, attempting to hold
relatively steady throttle and revs at various points in order to build
up a log of the fueling. After that, I stopped and checked the log for
any lean areas or overly rich areas. and adjusted the fueling in that
part of the table to compensate. There were a few
areas that needed attention. The rev range log and adjust was repeated a
good few times that aren't shown in the video until I was absolutely
sure I wasn't getting any lean areas. <br />
<br />
I then attempted a few runs that contained a mix of coasting, gradual
and hard acceleration to see how the engine reacted under normal riding
conditions. It doesn't like very quick throttle openings but that is to
be expected as I have acceleration enrichment disabled for the initial
tuning process. Acceleration enrichment adds additional fuel during
acceleration depending on the rate of throttle opening. The lack of this
is most evident while trying to blip the downshifts. <br />
<br />
Circa 6-7,000rpm at small throttle openings sounds quite rough
(0:30-0:45 in the video). It has improved since that clip in the video
but hasn't disappeared so that will need further work. <br />
<br />
Also the Koso dash does not seem to like the high revs and drops signal
anywhere between 10-14,000rpm as you can see in the video. It looks like
it misinterprets and loses sync with the signal coming from the ECU and
then catches it again. The point which the loss happens seems to vary
as well as the time before it picks up again. I have had no chance to
investigate this yet but first on the cards is to fit an inline resistor
as this cleared up my VR signal issues going to the ECU last year. I have also discovered a setting in Tunerstudio that allows TACHOUT to output half speed signals. There is a chance the Koso will like these slower signals better and it can then do its own internal multiplying to get back to the correct RPM reading.<br />
<br />
Over the last few days I have been logging full cold starts (engine stopped for more than 12 hours) and summarising various initial conditions such as cranking PW, idle VE, coolant temp and time to engine start. I am defining engine start as the point at which engine speed rises above 1,000 RPM. The summary results will hopefully build up a good database on which to base changes to the cranking PW curve to get the quickest possible starts. So far I have not had any real cold starts. The last 3 starts ranged from 15degC up to 22degC. Each achieved engine start within 0.95-1.52 seconds. Starts were achieved with zero throttle and no choke.<br />
<br />
I have noticed also that my logs are recording INJ2 timing of 0deg constant during engine running although the semi sequential injection should make it 180deg offset from INJ1 timing. The INJ1 timing shows correctly as per table so it may either be a glitch in the software or elsewhere to say that INJ2 appears not to be timed. If this is the case it may explain the slightly rougher than expected running.<br />
<br />
More to come as refinement progresses.</div>
motthomashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11930265085871789924noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4168720258672520292.post-12917791499400108632014-06-20T10:44:00.004+01:002014-06-20T10:44:46.672+01:00Up and Running<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Bit of a delay between posts I'm afraid due to not getting to the bike to do further work.<br />
<br />
The PLX SM-AFR controller and sensor arrived and got installed as soon as I got at the bike. It's a nice bit of kit and install was very simple! The way its set up is that you only end up installing the wires into the plug that you will use so in my case it was just the wideband analogue output and the 12V & GND wires go through a separate plug. 5 minute job to fit these three into the same connector as I had on the wiring loom and plug it in.<br />
<br />
Compared to the LC-1 too there is no free air or heater calibration needed. Once the engine was started, the AFRs were reading nicely and consistent with what the LC-1 used to tell me before giving up. All good for a spin!<br />
<br />
I spent about 2 hours riding, logging, adjusting and
then repeating the process. Most of the testing was carried out in 1st & 2nd gear initially on a sloped road in order to get the highest variance of throttle position and RPM. To begin with the VE table was much too rich (better than
being the other way around). Over the course of a few runs, some tweaking brought the AFRs across
the range up to between 12.5:1 and 14.5:1. More refinement will be required to
get the AFRs more consistent across the table. I am going to use TunerStudio's VE Analyse
software to get the table to within 90-95% of where I want it to be and I will leave the final refinement to be done on the dyno at the same time as creating a 3D ignition map.<br />
<br />
Unfortunately testing was cut short when I went to pump the rear tyre
and noticed a damaged valve stem. Too dangerous to keep going until it
could be fixed. I didn't get a video either because of that.
After the tweaking though, the engine seemed nice and crisp, response
was good and it pulled nicely through the revs. As mentioned, more
refinement left but it's definitely better than expected at this early
stage in the tuning process. </div>
motthomashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11930265085871789924noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4168720258672520292.post-38957650243854979292014-05-08T17:06:00.002+01:002014-05-08T17:06:37.801+01:00Faulty Lambda Sensor/Controller<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
After my last post I have got to further tuning the idle on the engine.<br />
<br />
The last video was using 2 injection events per engine cycle in an alternating pattern. Basically, cylinders are grouped in pairs and controllable independently. Cylinders #1 & #4 are grouped as INJ1 and cylinders #2 & #3 are grouped as INJ2. 2 squirts alternating means all the required fuel for an engine cycle is injected in one go with the 2 banks alternating by 360 degrees and injector firing is untimed.<br />
<br />
I then tried 4 squirts alternating which splits the required fuel into 2 injection events per cycle per cylinder with the two banks alternating by 180 degrees and firing is still untimed. My engine responded much better to 4 squirts alternating and was able to idle much smoother and also the off-idle response seemed sharper so I had found my base injector setting.<br />
<br />
Once I had established that, I moved to trying timed, semi-sequential injection. At cranking I have timed the injection event to happen while the intake valve is open so that the fuel is being sprayed directly into the cylinder. At idle, the injection event is timed to end just as the intake valve opens and then this is advanced a little as the revs rise up until c.8,000RPM. This is going by recommendations in the megasquirt documentation and may be subject to adjustment as things progress.<br />
<br />
The disappointing thing about it is that my Innovate LC-1 lambda sensor is showing faulty and so I haven't had the chance to test ride the bike yet. The sensor will read ok, if a little touchy, for about the first ten minutes of running and then it will display a full lean condition even though the idle is set to slightly rich. I have calibrated the heater and also carried out free air calibration on the sensor several times but with no results.<br />
<br />
About 2 years ago before I started this project, I used the same sensor & controller in the same position in the exhaust to successfully monitor and tune my AFRs with the stock carb setup so I can only conclude that either the sensor or controller is faulty. After researching a little, it appears that many people have had the same problem with the LC-1 and in most cases changing the controller seems to have solved the issues. <br />
<br />
In light of this, and rather than spend time troubleshooting either one or the other, I have bought a new PLX SM-AFR controller and sensor and so hopefully that will solve my sensor issues.<br />
<br />
Now I just need to get back in the same country as the bike so I can continue testing with the new sensor.</div>
motthomashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11930265085871789924noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4168720258672520292.post-63111377479048512582014-04-07T22:47:00.001+01:002014-04-07T22:52:29.334+01:00Injector Testing and First Start<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
First of all, I am delighted to say that I have started the bike on injectors! Sticking to the timeline though:<br />
<br />
As I was unable to get hold of a used fuel pump at short notice in Ireland, I decided to chance repairing the ZX10R pump I had. So late last week, I fully stripped all parts of the pump and cleaned all the contact points with wirebrush, fine emery paper and contact cleaner and reassembled the unit.<br />
When I then tested the pump, it worked perfectly so I proceeded with testing.<br />
<br />
As the CBR600RR injectors were designed for use with a fuel pressure of 50psi and the ZX10R fuel pump only delivers a fuel pressure of 44psi, I needed to test flow the injectors using 44psi fuel pressure. To do this, I mounted the injectors in the original CBR600RR secondary fuel rail and ran an extended section of fuel hose from the pump on the bike to the fuel rail. I also extended the wiring from the main bike loom out to one of the injectors on the test rail to provide power to the injector and a direct earth wire to the battery with a push to make switch between the injector and the battery to allow me to control the injector and operate it at 100% duty cycle. A graduated cylinder was used to catch and measure fuel discharge and the injector was run for several 30 & 35 second intervals to determine flow rate. Using the average of these tests, I was able to determine the actual flow rate of the injectors was 165cc/min.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rudimentary injector test rig</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
While the test rig was set up, I used the opportunity to test the injectors at various pulsewidths and speeds.<br />
<br />
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<br />
<br />
Once testing was complete, I re-installed the injectors in the throttle bodies and fitted them to the bike.<br />
<br />
It took circa 5 mins of cranking and varying cranking pulsewidths before I got the bike to fire and sustain running. First start was even captured on film.<br />
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<br />
After first start, idle was very high (~4-5,000RPM) and the engine also sounded rough as if it was only running on 3 cylinders. Nevertheless, it ran and there was going to be some tweaking needed to refine it.<br />
<br />
The next day, I was able to carry out more extensive testing and attempt to refine the idle. As it turns out, the roughness in running from the first start was due to one spark plug lead being unplugged! A quick fix. Idle was lowered significantly once I carried out a synchronisation of the throttle valves using a good set of vacuum guages. Once the throttle bodies were synchronised, I was able to get a steady idle around 2,000RPM.<br />
Further adjustments of the idle pulsewidths meant I was able to get the engine to idle reliably and smoothly at 1,700-1,800RPM. I attempted to go down as far as 1,500RPM but the idle became slightly unstable and off-idle throttle response was not ideal. This is because the pulsewidths required at this engine speed were too low and most probably in the non-linear flow region of the injectors.<br />
<br />
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<br />
<br />
<br />
I adjusted the idle pulsewidths to achieve the lowest intake manifold pressure while still holding a stable idle. Ideally, I would have liked to know the air-fuel ratio also but my O2 sensor was not reading correctly. It consistently indicated extremely lean conditions even though I was able to bog the engine from introducing too much fuel. I was able to verify it worked correctly by inserting it in the exhaust of a known bike and getting a reading so I suspect the problem is caused by an exhaust leak between the headers and the cylinder head. This will need to be fixed before continuing with ride testing.<br />
<br />
Even though the fuel VE table is still very basic and just a generic table generated by the software, the response off-idle is quite good and the engine appears to rev cleanly up to 6,000RPM. Ride testing will refine this even further and I am interested to see if this translates to a benefit in response when riding.</div>
motthomashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11930265085871789924noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4168720258672520292.post-88999317982510019172014-03-30T00:56:00.000+00:002014-04-02T12:19:16.384+01:00Final Assembly & Wiring<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
It has been a busy week with some good progress. I didn't quite get as far as first start as originally planned due to fuel pump issues but all the same I am happy with where things are now.<br />
<br />
First off, my carb/throttle bodies were finished with machining. Pete Walker of PB Machining based in Loughrea (pbmachining@gmail.com) took on the work and I'm very happy how they turned out. It was invaluable to have someone who understood the final application and who was interested in the project to do the work.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj9F9o_D7YeoXRhCJ6hBsnZsXJ5UgU5js6jLDoc9zT5YUl1ZTwsGUq5hw2IQWAoMd0lXovPr_hnrVyCErGNqt3SA2TbT2RzoijUpJ-hjkPaDE1M63BNb52tcWfk3zJpK3M5Z8GB0GmWfk/s1600/IMG_1724.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj9F9o_D7YeoXRhCJ6hBsnZsXJ5UgU5js6jLDoc9zT5YUl1ZTwsGUq5hw2IQWAoMd0lXovPr_hnrVyCErGNqt3SA2TbT2RzoijUpJ-hjkPaDE1M63BNb52tcWfk3zJpK3M5Z8GB0GmWfk/s1600/IMG_1724.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished throttle bodies with some re-assembly required</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Once I got the finished throttle bodies back I could work on the injector & sensor harness. As the majority of sensors (TPS, MAP, IAT & CLT) are located on and around the throttle bodies, the plan was to terminate the main loom just before it reached the throttle bodies and then have a separate harness that would stay with the throttle bodies for the injector wiring and sensors.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlzuY31cuHcaKqrd0-FVr1kcoOfh0h6xoJ3BhRdfxvLURUVSR7PRvgvLdrc_Fl1y_-fgV7xAHX8dobBRGaF7ET8GYObccyvWbU6ghcvrwABMCtFNQr3CQ2tOVnYppPO9g_1-WIBwyUfVg/s1600/IMG_1739.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlzuY31cuHcaKqrd0-FVr1kcoOfh0h6xoJ3BhRdfxvLURUVSR7PRvgvLdrc_Fl1y_-fgV7xAHX8dobBRGaF7ET8GYObccyvWbU6ghcvrwABMCtFNQr3CQ2tOVnYppPO9g_1-WIBwyUfVg/s1600/IMG_1739.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Injector harness</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Once the throttle bodies were fully re-assembled, I needed to set up the TPS mount. I had asked Pete to drill and tap an axial hole into the end of the #1 throttle rod to take an M3 machine screw. I took the head of a button head screw down on two sides to allow it to slot into the TPS. I needed to position the screw in such a way that the throttle could move through its full range of movement without reaching the limit of the TPS. Once a suitable position was found, the screw was thread-locked into the throttle rod with a half size nut to provide additional security. Then I drilled and tapped the TPS mounting screw holes in the adapter plate in the right place.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCCWFSxDl4G9IyqOlJuHIVtYA3DqF80vr2UXgK2vmyjx2nGyqWidqPDQSWRAkEfRTPk8bsu4_UXeuhJKi1p-QeJyNdU34vMOoVdZr3FwsN-4N0BZ0SYdL9OrBiqWNGA0PhFJT9cGk0zO8/s1600/IMG_1752.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCCWFSxDl4G9IyqOlJuHIVtYA3DqF80vr2UXgK2vmyjx2nGyqWidqPDQSWRAkEfRTPk8bsu4_UXeuhJKi1p-QeJyNdU34vMOoVdZr3FwsN-4N0BZ0SYdL9OrBiqWNGA0PhFJT9cGk0zO8/s1600/IMG_1752.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail of TPS screw</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjje4ZWU5Llju-m9sSkiYpmCzATg_eI2imfOOwOnUJVCgRcDBtvFf0xhNsA3FQfZ-Kl7tzqLip6Ka61j1v3KuLo3I7SmkQqHPSFFlXzHyziHmp9k21hPliz4yXdwXzkSBVJwCVuGeZIwOs/s1600/IMG_1755.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjje4ZWU5Llju-m9sSkiYpmCzATg_eI2imfOOwOnUJVCgRcDBtvFf0xhNsA3FQfZ-Kl7tzqLip6Ka61j1v3KuLo3I7SmkQqHPSFFlXzHyziHmp9k21hPliz4yXdwXzkSBVJwCVuGeZIwOs/s1600/IMG_1755.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">TPS in place</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Once everything else had been assembled, I could mock fit the throttle bodies to the bike and complete the injector harness.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMEbkV5TZc_0HjhiGLs54KE_T0gzqvajZp6OJ74oQQUKaIz6h_JbrEDB316T4tCyIz6KaE48_H3Hu6jc_lBYsABII3DzTv-MU04kUw5YecaNdPh4MtBYbebeLNGaesBPXAl7hroBH4jvE/s1600/IMG_1778.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMEbkV5TZc_0HjhiGLs54KE_T0gzqvajZp6OJ74oQQUKaIz6h_JbrEDB316T4tCyIz6KaE48_H3Hu6jc_lBYsABII3DzTv-MU04kUw5YecaNdPh4MtBYbebeLNGaesBPXAl7hroBH4jvE/s1600/IMG_1778.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Completed Injector & Sensor Harness</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D5kjzz8uJQg/UzdWQ-qkHAI/AAAAAAAAE_A/ACCpQf1iOBA/s1600/IMG_1775.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D5kjzz8uJQg/UzdWQ-qkHAI/AAAAAAAAE_A/ACCpQf1iOBA/s1600/IMG_1775.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Injector placement in the throttle bore</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The finished assembly is very tight in the bike. There is not a lot of room to play around with in there and the fuel rail only barely fits between the frame rails. I also had to move the thermostat housing down c.20mm to allow the fuel rail to fit. Even so, it takes a fair bit of maneuvering to get the whole assembly into place and sitting into the intake boots.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8e5RQ9Zd4e7hd_MLBxaWAilopv3C0kUgxUZXCpt5X0T6svZytWZHpORQNiHhURgcAu5R2KBpmqoBMc_J2lxLO7YPtQzxGYXyTmRSf_aNHrRaZ1awpQrwKYXQwVxBBfVTke2VT1tzRd5g/s1600/IMG_1781.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8e5RQ9Zd4e7hd_MLBxaWAilopv3C0kUgxUZXCpt5X0T6svZytWZHpORQNiHhURgcAu5R2KBpmqoBMc_J2lxLO7YPtQzxGYXyTmRSf_aNHrRaZ1awpQrwKYXQwVxBBfVTke2VT1tzRd5g/s1600/IMG_1781.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All in place. Notice no slides</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-my_4-CdaN04/UzdWU1PS70I/AAAAAAAAE_Y/Z3vZQXqAqH8/s1600/IMG_1783.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-my_4-CdaN04/UzdWU1PS70I/AAAAAAAAE_Y/Z3vZQXqAqH8/s1600/IMG_1783.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some idea of the space constraints</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFeugxWLBR2SuPwNtmlUwJONHlpToa8x1dlmdX9Tc0Jt_8NQcOm6GGC39OZZx0nMCNcDsqOmGAAK69DmstQklJbwTKUnc0SAxaoBi5Px9_jrLpdzoRSBhPKUXYkW-SBum_RjWI026ZIzU/s1600/IMG_1784.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFeugxWLBR2SuPwNtmlUwJONHlpToa8x1dlmdX9Tc0Jt_8NQcOm6GGC39OZZx0nMCNcDsqOmGAAK69DmstQklJbwTKUnc0SAxaoBi5Px9_jrLpdzoRSBhPKUXYkW-SBum_RjWI026ZIzU/s1600/IMG_1784.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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That was the point when I was planning to flow test the injectors and go for first start but the fuel pump decided to give up the ghost. I had tested it previously but this time it refused to budge at all. Investigation pointed towards a short out between positive & ground within the pump. The investigation inevitably lead to this situation:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwCsxNi7TQjnsgcmwSmpG_G1FX26nlK70hhbb6RZL5T7f8xJwjrd5R3e2b8MH4GJGeLFHCeZj9AC_lEh8thEt3uDfPKUlkbH3AjNpGiKCPMkyViBoHzTdXePahD4oa0XGBzrqs2-2kqyY/s1600/IMG_1769.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwCsxNi7TQjnsgcmwSmpG_G1FX26nlK70hhbb6RZL5T7f8xJwjrd5R3e2b8MH4GJGeLFHCeZj9AC_lEh8thEt3uDfPKUlkbH3AjNpGiKCPMkyViBoHzTdXePahD4oa0XGBzrqs2-2kqyY/s1600/IMG_1769.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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I may be able to to get the pump going again but for now the best course of action is to just get a replacement pump.<br />
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I have confirmed that all the sensors are now talking to the ECU properly. All that's left now before attempting starting is to replace the pump and determine injector flow rates & dead times.<br />
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Despite the setback from the pump, I'm very happy with the progress of the last week. Hopefully the next update will be with the bike running.</div>
motthomashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11930265085871789924noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4168720258672520292.post-79238957283878149812014-03-10T21:24:00.002+00:002014-03-10T21:24:30.525+00:00Throttle Bodies<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Sneak preview. :) The fuel rail has not been trimmed to length and the brackets to hold the rail in place are being worked at the moment but you can get the picture.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ9JSI-WIIulNTNkGK8h6fltK0UWrOofKrcWYVHkIWuh8lpSQPukGrkrlaDToR7i695mrJFaYsIUXYysmLEvsmlXorcgn9KkDZTQtMN1zjGPbMJZCwmlSP7X69nujFz4zCckg-SghXs54/s1600/DSCF1943.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ9JSI-WIIulNTNkGK8h6fltK0UWrOofKrcWYVHkIWuh8lpSQPukGrkrlaDToR7i695mrJFaYsIUXYysmLEvsmlXorcgn9KkDZTQtMN1zjGPbMJZCwmlSP7X69nujFz4zCckg-SghXs54/s1600/DSCF1943.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgms_N5gjpqcXhsj2nJk2va-6hzBinf4kd6fZ5FM8gnOaaqJaKo_YnJR95s8M9E9UbWk6seHUft2-YCASKVFZGxh4OUkhneidt8BJdsQpBrf9p_6I6uYceg9YsF_ljylhXHO2oknfevP8M/s1600/DSCF1944.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgms_N5gjpqcXhsj2nJk2va-6hzBinf4kd6fZ5FM8gnOaaqJaKo_YnJR95s8M9E9UbWk6seHUft2-YCASKVFZGxh4OUkhneidt8BJdsQpBrf9p_6I6uYceg9YsF_ljylhXHO2oknfevP8M/s1600/DSCF1944.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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motthomashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11930265085871789924noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4168720258672520292.post-82892415459306405752014-01-27T09:08:00.001+00:002014-01-27T09:08:25.866+00:00Petrol tank and pump<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I now have an mc22 petrol tank complete with inbuilt fuel pump, filter & pressure regulator assembly.<br />
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Using the mounting flange which I cut from the ZX6R tank, I cut a hole in a spare mc22 tank and welded the ZX6R mounting flange in place. Pressure tested for leaks and all is good. The tank will need a clean out before use but is otherwise ready to go.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimWGAjunqVU41aNaMnC2TdB7ZpkPWsXtlTDfT8GFo9tJqBfMXnskTlzETp5gYm_F6P5dFLzzL9HQA9iH1sc437QSonusYg3OJ0EzHPhTxI5-f5vCGW_3DQ-qguARokwPIKJfgw0fkATuY/s1600/IMG_1253.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimWGAjunqVU41aNaMnC2TdB7ZpkPWsXtlTDfT8GFo9tJqBfMXnskTlzETp5gYm_F6P5dFLzzL9HQA9iH1sc437QSonusYg3OJ0EzHPhTxI5-f5vCGW_3DQ-qguARokwPIKJfgw0fkATuY/s1600/IMG_1253.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flange welded in place</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEFo9FoZvV7dDK4e9PU5eOmd94YMes9mwqo2QVpBq3iLI4gXE9ELQbiF5acXRRZkYDldPhoa8y7BjIzWp3glsKrVVn5GB7kWo_9f4C5IUj-7LwtHU0TJa6yLZ4XtRRDFUZTExBEkVYo44/s1600/IMG_1258.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEFo9FoZvV7dDK4e9PU5eOmd94YMes9mwqo2QVpBq3iLI4gXE9ELQbiF5acXRRZkYDldPhoa8y7BjIzWp3glsKrVVn5GB7kWo_9f4C5IUj-7LwtHU0TJa6yLZ4XtRRDFUZTExBEkVYo44/s1600/IMG_1258.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With pump installed</td></tr>
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motthomashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11930265085871789924noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4168720258672520292.post-5088325554426347272014-01-22T12:11:00.000+00:002014-01-22T12:11:00.509+00:00TPS mount & plumbing<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
A little more work on the project over the weekend. I have fabricated a mounting plate on which to mount the TPS to the end of carb #1. This is simply a 3mm aluminium plate shaped to incorporate the TPS mounting holes and fixed to the carb through the top clamping rod and by way of a threaded hole into the side of the float bowl chamber. The clamping rod end needed an additional 3mm spacer in order to bring it level with the float bowl chamber.<br />
The movement of the throttle will be transferred to the TPS through an M3 bolt whose head has been ground flat to fit in the TPS. The end of the throttle rod will been drilled and tapped to take the bolt. To fix the position of the bolt in place, both a locking nut and thread locker will be used.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxjsYLm7awp4Jsy2KTcg5A2XaBteKsBmQzFkcF5VWonXcT7bGOeSLpv_SOwhnHjyvaT-vqmfYqH03EXPJMxaimnkS1BGUGL4TCH4Of8E8u1s-jC9XaXbTv7oBjvkq_C8hh0Ov9c9Q4PLw/s1600/IMG_1239.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxjsYLm7awp4Jsy2KTcg5A2XaBteKsBmQzFkcF5VWonXcT7bGOeSLpv_SOwhnHjyvaT-vqmfYqH03EXPJMxaimnkS1BGUGL4TCH4Of8E8u1s-jC9XaXbTv7oBjvkq_C8hh0Ov9c9Q4PLw/s1600/IMG_1239.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">TPS mount plate</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjayRsgRwZXjwVqEhGABhyphenhyphenJlWTavHCLZxUjYy01nwbKvc1sndwhdz0adxLT7wL7PzW6QNsmK6QLJbBHbQ1xg8Wg7-piT4Xj4n5s7IQ_wCARz7rRPcOZUKu1wxOs94H6JGO3xzKhnfyTB6k/s1600/IMG_1240.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjayRsgRwZXjwVqEhGABhyphenhyphenJlWTavHCLZxUjYy01nwbKvc1sndwhdz0adxLT7wL7PzW6QNsmK6QLJbBHbQ1xg8Wg7-piT4Xj4n5s7IQ_wCARz7rRPcOZUKu1wxOs94H6JGO3xzKhnfyTB6k/s1600/IMG_1240.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">TPS in approximate position.</td></tr>
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The fuel pump mount has been cut out of the ZX6R tank ready for transfer onto the spare mc22 tank. It seemed a pity to cut up a perfectly good tank but all for the better!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EXxuLrZJsno/Ut0-4Wn94RI/AAAAAAAAEug/89hfa_cXTJ8/s1600/IMG_1234.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EXxuLrZJsno/Ut0-4Wn94RI/AAAAAAAAEug/89hfa_cXTJ8/s1600/IMG_1234.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ZX6R fuel pump flange</td></tr>
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A mock mounting of the throttle bodies and fuel rail revealed that there was interference between the fuel rail and thermostat housing. Fortunately, I was able to overcome that pretty easily by adding an 18mm spacer underneath the thermostat housing mounting bracket. That pushed the thermostat housing down low enough to provide clearance for the fuel rail.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8RsCk_iSgss/Ut0-5GlPIMI/AAAAAAAAEvE/CZbgEgDOabQ/s1600/IMG_1237.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8RsCk_iSgss/Ut0-5GlPIMI/AAAAAAAAEvE/CZbgEgDOabQ/s1600/IMG_1237.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fuel rail mock fitting (very approximate)</td></tr>
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Ideas to deal with plumbing to the fuel rail have been run through also. The first option was to use standard threaded -6 motorsport hose fittings on one end of the fuel rail. That would involve a threaded adapter to sit into the fuel rail end. A 90 degree swivel fitting would then be threaded onto the adapter and lead onto the hose. The issue with this setup was side clearance on the fuel rail. The adapter and 90 degree fitting would need c.50mm end clearance to fit between the fuel rail and frame, which was not available.<br />
<br />The second idea was to run the same type of setup but with a 180 degree swivel fitting threaded into the bottom of the fuel rail and back on itself up towards the fuel pump. A quick CAD mockup of the carb bodies with blanking plates, injectors and fuel rail installed showed there wasn't the clearance available for this either.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKKDWXZjjq7EvD6Rr7s7IL3n0IgTLR0MRzfRzk9Nx9rFIWRbTOfuZgmAPpbg-Yk6DUsnQQm9Jtg2e3RjexoZvbFax8935-xcrTvcSKxRy1c2J-hovnu0NMM3dawDhLK8mYub-uiNFe3KI/s1600/IMG_1243%255B1%255D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKKDWXZjjq7EvD6Rr7s7IL3n0IgTLR0MRzfRzk9Nx9rFIWRbTOfuZgmAPpbg-Yk6DUsnQQm9Jtg2e3RjexoZvbFax8935-xcrTvcSKxRy1c2J-hovnu0NMM3dawDhLK8mYub-uiNFe3KI/s1600/IMG_1243%255B1%255D.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">CAD mockup of injector and fuel rail position relative to carb body</td></tr>
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The final (hopefully) solution is to run a banjo bolt into the end of the fuel rail and clamp the fuel hose onto a barbed fitting. This would achieve something similar to the first option but with less end clearance required. The other end of the fuel hose will be clamped to the original ZX10R fuel hose fitting to allow it to clip onto the fuel pump. </div>
motthomashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11930265085871789924noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4168720258672520292.post-14815864834019657232014-01-17T15:26:00.001+00:002014-01-17T15:26:15.962+00:00Throttle bodies & wiring<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
A new year brings with it a new approach again and some good progress. First the throttle bodies.<br />
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The plan to fully modify the existing carburetors to become permanent throttle bodies has been changed again and simplified. While putting the exact modifications required down on paper, I discovered that there is not enough wall clearance in the carbs to fully bore out the step in the casting that forms a small part of the venturi. That realisation then snowballed to simplifying all aspects of the modification.<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Instead of interference fitting a block of aluminium into the slide orifice and machining out with the rest of the bore, I will now bond the original slides in place, fill them with high temperature epoxy resin and take them out to match the carb bore by hand. </li>
<li>The main jet protrusion will be drilled out and smoothed out using epoxy.</li>
<li>The protruding float bowl pieces will be cut down to the level of the float bowl mating surface</li>
<li>New blanking caps will be made up to fit where the float bowls once fitted and an additional piece fixed towards the front of the carbs to allow for good injector seats. This will become clearer in photos.</li>
<li>Any imperfections and gaps between the carb body and the new blanking plates will be filled with temperature resistant JB Weld.</li>
<li>The only professional machining required will be to drill and bore the injector seats in the throttle bodies and the fuel rail.</li>
</ul>
The major advantage to the new (again) approach is that the majority of the work can be done using basic tools and so can be done quickly. Even better is the fact I am already pretty much ready to send off the carbs and fuel rail to machine the injector seats. Photo's of progress so far below.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLFKW7wfIPAvDeSP7ADJRXqCsES_1bZXyoA3LOmGhhmEhsPas-PAwb2pMLYmnN12XIS7b9YbxL5SNSAqAJvFSqm61vfP0a5Zcdn83UJKsIWXYFrNuv1W3bb38zl7J8m5l05_k8QQzQX0E/s1600/IMG_1213.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLFKW7wfIPAvDeSP7ADJRXqCsES_1bZXyoA3LOmGhhmEhsPas-PAwb2pMLYmnN12XIS7b9YbxL5SNSAqAJvFSqm61vfP0a5Zcdn83UJKsIWXYFrNuv1W3bb38zl7J8m5l05_k8QQzQX0E/s1600/IMG_1213.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Float bowl cut down to seat face</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizoIbgnD4_ZNz_tvsmSrK5rMS6iDza1COtEkloR93i1c33ynDADwlM57X81ZzJ8XVl0Pw7U7UIafTWLOyX4IM7aBoMUxz54j35WUQCUvIrPhojY76dcE-95gyuiaikPhsUnEawSFQA7qI/s1600/IMG_1216.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizoIbgnD4_ZNz_tvsmSrK5rMS6iDza1COtEkloR93i1c33ynDADwlM57X81ZzJ8XVl0Pw7U7UIafTWLOyX4IM7aBoMUxz54j35WUQCUvIrPhojY76dcE-95gyuiaikPhsUnEawSFQA7qI/s1600/IMG_1216.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mock up of float bowl blanking plates</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQg918ioJ7i54qlt3ERZZCADq1PErl-YDp8O5T58HA-MQP_dgRmXVpvYrm1BEof57_L_qXx8pdd8BbEhlX_AALsrWsrSBiiaXOdZzbEQO8yxcg8CfuvdTC3KQoYtf01EC8aH6ryQi12Vo/s1600/IMG_1228.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQg918ioJ7i54qlt3ERZZCADq1PErl-YDp8O5T58HA-MQP_dgRmXVpvYrm1BEof57_L_qXx8pdd8BbEhlX_AALsrWsrSBiiaXOdZzbEQO8yxcg8CfuvdTC3KQoYtf01EC8aH6ryQi12Vo/s1600/IMG_1228.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail showing infill of gaps with JB Weld for injector seat</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjDXJa6E04BB2LXk0_Ii3GlxUW8mW_jyglzjt12kZft40IuXPW-3YGtPYr1BRe7p5QvKMpJ3M7MCx1LKYeB8pLZajJZRT6KfaDv9ygxgfDBhap2QyNaW90IT_UQrVEfcNdWTQaxeG5HHI/s1600/IMG_1223.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjDXJa6E04BB2LXk0_Ii3GlxUW8mW_jyglzjt12kZft40IuXPW-3YGtPYr1BRe7p5QvKMpJ3M7MCx1LKYeB8pLZajJZRT6KfaDv9ygxgfDBhap2QyNaW90IT_UQrVEfcNdWTQaxeG5HHI/s1600/IMG_1223.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slide filled with JB Weld</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFPp0MNyXLpqn16naY2X7Uv9YK60DMlkeY-MIHoa2V-CRTaaC-5UMuwINGeRj-1OBiLkKWEUbwJrAT32f8ERS7HN5qH35ttTuQLpe2TS66wp8n963PRvmcZrCLInJFBnm8RnnT1nPTgHU/s1600/IMG_1225.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFPp0MNyXLpqn16naY2X7Uv9YK60DMlkeY-MIHoa2V-CRTaaC-5UMuwINGeRj-1OBiLkKWEUbwJrAT32f8ERS7HN5qH35ttTuQLpe2TS66wp8n963PRvmcZrCLInJFBnm8RnnT1nPTgHU/s1600/IMG_1225.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rough filling of drilled out needle jet</td></tr>
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I have also been tidying up the wiring somewhat to make it the entire setup more permanent. More to go and there's not a whole lot to see anyway but some idea of what the old CDI area currently looks like is below. Including resistors hard-wired inline into the VRIN wires.<br />
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motthomashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11930265085871789924noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4168720258672520292.post-85956099699828208542013-11-26T09:34:00.001+00:002013-11-26T09:34:44.541+00:00Slow progress<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Since getting ignition control sorted, progress on the project has been very slow. Mainly due to work commitments, holidays and spending time on other projects.<br />
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The main restriction to major progress has been the throttle body modification. I have switched my tactic again and decided to modify an existing bank of mc22 carburetors to act as throttle bodies rather than to modify the GSR throttle bodies to fit the mc22 engine. This would consist of machining out the carb venturi to create a smooth, unobstructed passage from carb inlet to butterfly valve, also blanking off the slide passage and float bowl and machining injector seats into the bodies after the butterfly valves. The advantages here being that the machining involved is within the scope of my own abilities on a manual machine simply because I don't trust other people's QC!<br />
Since last posting I have procured a spare set of carbs to be modified and am currently trying to find a workshop I can use in my spare time to do the work.<br />
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As well as carbs, I've procured a spare fuel tank that can be modified to take an in-tank fuel pump and also procured the fuel pump from a Kawasaki ZX636R.<br />
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In the meantime, I have begun to tidy up the wiring loom to a more permanent standard using proper wiring connectors. A lambda sensor has been connected to provide input to the ECU.<br />
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I have also wired in the Koso dash into the existing loom and now have a fully functioning rev counter which takes it's input from the ECU. Installation on the bike was pretty straight-forward and consisted of some minor modification to the mounting bracket supplied with the clocks and bolted onto the old clock stay bracket. Wiring was also straight-forward with the majority of inputs being supplied through the stock 9-pin connector for the old clocks. This tidied up the wiring a nice bit as the additional inputs consist of<br />
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<li>Constant 12V</li>
<li>Switched 12V</li>
<li>Fuel sensor</li>
<li>Coolant temp</li>
<li>Oil temp </li>
<li>Speed signal</li>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijA9WegFV7yE7RzgZvYd_14BCWiokIS8TzZiN9KTtzmWFfssRagSm76JUlqoluUC8of01MNgx9y93WixPDPMH6XFtxeVBbaY32sX55-NsuCKl8nrpCandge4XsuHG9jseMtYToDjimnmE/s1600/IMG_0415.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijA9WegFV7yE7RzgZvYd_14BCWiokIS8TzZiN9KTtzmWFfssRagSm76JUlqoluUC8of01MNgx9y93WixPDPMH6XFtxeVBbaY32sX55-NsuCKl8nrpCandge4XsuHG9jseMtYToDjimnmE/s400/IMG_0415.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Koso mounting bracket installed</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-y15YAZEJdG6iksAERMewDVX43ORZ-VQe-fvDjKaLBVum7KzDCll7fVK_zY7M4_hl2tHnukfYEaapMV3LZSMnRzC3gRTlfZ5-_T5SHnlL_3tM9K_h3VNamzW0q3BPnfe8LOFEt9KsZYE/s1600/IMG_0419.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-y15YAZEJdG6iksAERMewDVX43ORZ-VQe-fvDjKaLBVum7KzDCll7fVK_zY7M4_hl2tHnukfYEaapMV3LZSMnRzC3gRTlfZ5-_T5SHnlL_3tM9K_h3VNamzW0q3BPnfe8LOFEt9KsZYE/s400/IMG_0419.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Koso dash installed</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkbyhJ4-nc0USnbp10JYzpj36t08WX1jcT_Ez2mtVgZbxoSGPtCLuzjSKGL_47MZ0PckIw-RqILo_WzmeeWxQdLkrT1ogR7nJ1HbWVARE2hgu8V9qvSsyAd_4Qi-EIDyl5_yUAi9Pxw2E/s1600/IMG_0425.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkbyhJ4-nc0USnbp10JYzpj36t08WX1jcT_Ez2mtVgZbxoSGPtCLuzjSKGL_47MZ0PckIw-RqILo_WzmeeWxQdLkrT1ogR7nJ1HbWVARE2hgu8V9qvSsyAd_4Qi-EIDyl5_yUAi9Pxw2E/s400/IMG_0425.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Main wiring connected. It is still a mess to be tidied up closer to completion</td></tr>
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I'm also trying to get the CBR600RR stick coils to fit but having issues with cylinder #2 clearance with the fan motor. The coil itself is just too long and sticks up too far. Anyone know of stick coils that are just 15-20mm shorter than those on a 2007 CBR600RR?<br />
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motthomashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11930265085871789924noreply@blogger.com6